
 


   
, , , -    XX       ,      .     砖     :    ,     -,         .      ,       ?         ?    ?   ?       ,             .     -    ,      ,   ,       .





 





 Clair Hughes, 2017

 . ,   , 2019

    , 2019


* * *


  










      ,    .         ,  .       ,     .     ,          .  ,   Berg  Bloomsbury,         .    ,                     .        ,       ,          .

              .          .          ,           .          ,       .                  ,        .      -        ,        .  ,  ,  ,         .    ,     :  Locks  --,    -,     , - -,  ,        .              .

        ,    :   ,     ,    ,  ,  ,     .     ,   Locks  --,         .           ,        .    ,   ,   .                ,        .          ,         - 1970? ,     .

            ,      ,        ,     ,     ,      .      ,          .          .

,        :          ,               .







   ,    ,     :     ,    .      ,        ,       ,   ,      -,      [1 - Jones S. Hats: An Anthology. London: V&A Publishing, 2009. P. 51.].    ,       . , ࠖ  ꠖ  .            .          (2012)        .      ,            ,     . ,   ,         .     ࠖ     ,  ,    ,    ,         . ࠖ   ,             .     ⻠   ,    ,   .       ,     .           ,     ,        .  ,     ?

          ,          . (           1700  1970 .)      ,    ,     , ,  , ,        .         ࠖ   ,   .      .            ,      , ,       .   ,         :    ,        ,   ,    .   -,  ,     .      .   1900  (. 1)         , ࠖ    ,     -.    ,         ,   ,       .       .

  XX          ,          ,   -.          , , ,      ,       ,   ,  ,  .   堖    ࠖ    ,       .                .          ,               .    ,   ,      ,     :    XX         .       .            .    1960         ,     ,     ,        .






. 1.    . 1900



          .     - ,      ,        .         ,  頖  ,      ,           ,      :   -,  ࠖ     ,     , , ,          .

         ,     :         ,   ,   .                ,         .      ,        ?         ?         ?  ,        ,      .       ,                        .

          (   ).    ,      (   ,    ).        ,      (     ,  ,    ).         .     ,           .            :     ,        .    ?   ?                           ,     .   ,         ,  ,          ,   . ,          ,       .         .

  ,         ,         ,   ,   ,   ,   ,     ,     ,     .        ,         .  ,   :  ,   ,   ,  ,   ,    ,   , .           -,      ,      .    1780? ,        -, ,               .   ,        .








            :        頖    ,   .         -.         ,          .      ,   ,    .       .   ,      ,   .       ,    ,  ,   ,    .   (   ) ,    , -   ,    .  ,  ,     .         ,     .









 1

,     



        .      -   XVIII ,       ,           -   .    1940?  1950?          ,       .        蠖   ,     .   ,       ,   ,    . ,        ,         .         ,             ,       , ,        .            ,             .

  ,    ,   ,      [2 - Jones S. Hats: An Anthology. London: V&A Publishing, 2009. P. 51.].  XIX ,   ,          ,      [3 - Lloyd R. Treatise on Hats. London: Thorowgood, 1819. P. 21. Archival reprint, Winterthur Museum, Part 2, 2134.].         ,   ,  ,    .  ,    .    ,  , ,       (1923)[4 - Woolf V. Mrs Dalloway. London: Penguin, 1992 [1923]. P. 95. .  .:  .   [. . ] //  . . .:  , 1989. . 87.].   , ,     XVIII ,     XIX        1940? .     ,  :   ,    ,      ,    ,       ,       . ,    ,   .

       ,   ,     ,    ,         1700  2000 .     ,  ,                  .       ,          ,  頖   .   XVIII ,  ,        ,    .   XIX               ,     .

      ,         ,   ,   [5 - Carter M. Putting a Face on Things. Sydney: Power Institute of Fine Arts, 1997. P. 113.].    ,    ,      ,    . ,    , ,        ,       ,      - .       ,    .           ,    .     :   .       ,    ࠖ . , ,    ,       [6 -    : panache   ,     ,  . . .]  . ,            (1954)              - [7 - Jenkins E. The Tortoise and the Hare. London: Virago, 2010 [1954]. P. 5.].  ,    ,     ,       .   XIX        . ,      ;    堖  -   .




 


   ,       () ,   .         XVI     .                ,     (. 1).       ,     ,  .        , ,  .        , ,     (. 2).    1661   ,  ,  45  (284     )   ;   XVIII        ( 60    ),     ࠖ   ( 15    ); 1870       ,          (1300    ), []    [8 - Sala G. A. The Hats of Humanity. Manchester: James Gee, 1870. P. 11.].          (Hudsons Bay Company)   ,  ,    ,      ,    ,        XVIII .  , ,    .






. 1.   XVIII 






. 2.   . 1819



        [9 -    ࠖ        .]. ,     ,   ,   ,   1600        .   ,    ⠖    ,        .       . .  :     ,           ,       XVII [10 - Rich E. E. The Hudson Bay Company. London: Hudsons Bay Record Society, 1957. P. 14].        ,          (453,6 )   ,        .

           ,       ,     .    -,  ,               .                  ,    .           :  - 蠖    ,        ,   .  1650          :         ,  ,   .  1736       ,        :         ,    .           .    ,              .

          .    ,                    .            (Worshipful Company of the Art or Mistery of Feltmakers).  mistery (  mystery,   . . .)    .           ,    ,     .           :                .




 


       .                 .   XVIII   ,         ,         .         (  6)         .    ,       ࠖ       .  1771                 [11 - Young A. A Six Months Tour through the North of England. Vol. 3. London: W. Nicoll, 1771. Cit. ex.: McKnight P. Stockport Hatting. Stockport Community Services Division, 2000.].  1800                .

         .            .   2014            ,           .             [12 - Flanagan P. The Lollipop Ladys Garden Shed Gets National Treasure Status // The Telegraph. 2014. March 21. www.telegraph.co.uk/news/earth/environment/conservation/10714510/Lollipop-ladys-garden-shed-gets-national-treasure-status.html.].            XIX .       ,          :     (. 3)   XIX ,        ,     .   -   ,      ,   .      ,     :       .   ,       ,  , ,        .  ,      ,    XX ,       :   ,           ,   ,        ,   ,        ,    蠖      ;    ,      [13 - Bernstein H. The Invisible Wall. London: Arrow Books, 2007. P. 3.].

   ,   ,   ,           .     ,    , -    ( ),        .     (bowing)       .       (planking),              , ,        ,              (. 4).            (blocking)      .        . ,        1841 ,          [14 - The Penny Magazine. London: Charles Knight & Co., 1841. P. 45.].    ,   1900? ,         :         [] ,             ,      [15 - Cit. ex.: Nevell M. Denton and the Archaeology of the Felt Hatting Industry. Manchester: The Archaeology of Tameside. Vol. 7. P. 83.].          .






. 3.     XIX . 2014






. 4.    ,   . Penny Magazine. 1841



      .       ,  껠         .  ,         ,   .      ,     ,  ,       .     ,    ,  ,   ,   [16 -   (secrtage)  ? ,           .   (carroting)   ,     蠖 -, .            :   :  . .  :      . .:   , 2017. . .].  ,        ,   ,    .  ,    ,     ,    ,    .     ,  1770?   , ,   ,           ,     .          ,        1912 .

     ,    .        ;    ,    .       ,     .   ,          ,    . , ,    ,          ,          1776 ,     .         ,        .     ,    1800          .

 ,    ,     :       .        ,         젖   ,   ,      ,         ,        . XVIII      :      ,    cocked hats  ,                 .          ,        (    ),     .   -:   ,   ,      .  ,        :         ,       .       ,    1800? ,    蠖 ,      ,           .

        1770? .      ,            .  [17 -           : Corner D. The Tyranny of Fashion // Textile History. 1991. Vol. 22 (2). P. 153178.         .]     ,    .  ,             . , ,  ,    .   ,      頖     , ,      ,    ,    ,     .   ,        ,   ,              .         ,        ,    .     ,         .     ,    ,             ,   .

,       ,     .       XIX      ,     ,     , ,       ,   . ,      ,     (   )        1790 .   1819              ,      ,  蠖       껠      .         ,             : ,   .    ,    XIX        .           1821 ,   1880?                (bowing).   XIX     conformateur  ,   ,      .      .         1870? ,        ,      .

  1880?       .      ,      ,       ,     .     :   ,   ,     .  ,    ,         (1891)  , ,          [18 - Grossmith W., Grossmith G. Diary of a Nobody. London: Book Society, 1946 [1891]. P. 120. .  .:  .,  .   : [] / . .  ; .  . .: . . .-, 2007. C. 227.].  ,     ,          .                      .          .      , ,   ,   ,      .      ,      [19 - The Stockport Advertiser. 1889. February 22. P. 3.].             .




 [20 -          ,   2015     ,       ,  ,   .]


       堖    ,         1870? .   ,  , ,   .       -          .   ,        .   ,     ,   ,   ,   ,      ,     .  , ,        ,           .  XVII         ,   ,      [21 -      (Hatfield)    ,       (     ).    hat  堖   heath, . . .]       ,         .

, -       ,         1942 [22 - Dony J. A History of the Straw Hat Industry. Luton: The Leagrave Press, 1942. P. 88.].      :    ,     XVIII ;       1850             ;  The Sunday Times  1989     ,       [23 - Cit. ex.: Bunker S. Strawopolis. Bedfordshire Historical Record Society, 1999. P. 6.].           [24 - Thaarup A. Heads and Tales. London: Cassel & Co., 1956. P. 76.].         -?

 ,  2015      ,  , ,            ,   ,         ,       ,    ,    ,      .              .              ,      ,      .               1800? .     ,        :     ,       .    ,        蠖       .

           ,          -  (  ࠖ Leghorn     ),       XVIII         .    ,         (    )     .             ,              .  XIX    -    ,   1826            .   ,   :     ,     1830? ,    ,     ? ,          ,   1928      ,           Gorringes[25 - Adburgham A. Shops and Shopping. London: Cassell & Co., 1964. P. 106.].




     


     :      , ,      ,  ,           [26 - Carmichael K., McOmish D., Grech D. The Hat Industry of Luton & Its Buildings. Swindon: English Heritage, 2013. P. 40.].      .  ,    ,    ,   ,      - .  ,       XIX , -        (. 5).       (    ?)    .  1850?         ,            .       ,           ,     .        ,    ,       ,  ,     .






. 5.  XIX       



   ,           .       ,       ,       .  ,  ,     :          ,      ,      ,        1870 ,    .  1893     -    ,      ,   ,   .      :   1923     ,              [27 - Ibid. . 29.].

    ,        頖    ꠖ     ,             .   ,  ,             .         ,        .           , ,       ,      ,   ,     ,   .  ,    ,     : ?              .

 1867       ,   .  ,         :    ,         .        .   ,        ,           ,                .                  ,    .     ,           ,  ,    ,  .       ,     廠              .   ,    ,             ࠖ    ,     .







    1870?         ,      ,    ,    .     蠖    .             ,      ,         .  1870?               .  1875           ,       ,        ,        .          ,      (. 6).       젖        .  1891          ,         ,    ,   [28 - Grossmith. . 58 (. . 100).],           (. 7).

,      ,       ,         ,         .        ,        .    ,         (   1870?),          .      , ,  [29 - Bennett A. Old Wives Tale. Oxford: World Classics, 1995 [1908]. P. 80. .  .:  .     / . . [ .] . . .:  , 1989. . 91.].       XIX        ,       ,        頖      ,     .  ,  , , ,           1920? ,   ,      [30 - Thaarup. . 7.].      ,      .        , ,    ,        .






. 6.  XIX        






. 7.       . 1891



              ,         .            -ࠖ            .




:   


    , ,    ,      ,      .  ,   XVII   ,  XVIII      -,     .    ,   ,  1830?    , ,      ;         1900 ,         .     XIX    -   :     ,        .         .     .         ,         , ,     -  1947 ,  ,    ,    ,        .   - ,        ,           -  [31 - Ibid. . 84.].        ,      -.   ,  ,      1950? ,          1970? ,     .     ,             .          ,    ,     .       ,      ,     [32 -     , 2013.].

     ,        (1814),           ,   , ,         ,      ,       ,    .     ,      ,        ,         , 堖  [33 - Burney F. The Wanderer. Oxford: Worlds Classics, 1991 [1814]. P. 426, 427.].   ,       ,      :          -,   ,     .               .    ,     ,       :  ,     ,       .              -      .       ,      ,   1912      .

 1930?                 .   ,       ,   1950?    Saks  -,   ,      ,  ,                 ,         ,        :   , , -,     ,     ,    [34 - du Plessix Grey F. Them. London: Penguin, 2005. P. 22.].   ,  ,     ,   1965         .                     ,   ,          .        ,   ,         ,           .

  XVIII    ,          .      .      , ,     ,     ! ,          ,      .   ,  ,   ,          [35 - Erikson A. L. Working London: Eleanor Mosely and other Milliners in the City of London Companies 17001750 // The History Workshop Journal. 2014. Is. 71. P. 163, 164.].  1781             -.     ,       ,            :  ,   ,    .     .    ,  :         ![36 - Gissing G. In the Year of Jubilee. Create Space Independent Publishing, 2012 [1898]. P. 256.]      ,         .               ,  ,    .




  


  XX      .     ,   ,    ,     ,       .  1900          ,              ,        .       .      :

		Mister Harris, plutocrat, wants to give my cheek a pat
		If the Harris pat means a Paris hat OK!

		 , ,     堖
		         ࠖ  !

   ,        XIX [37 - Iskin R. Modern Women and Parisian Consumer Culture in Impressionist Painting. Cambridge: C. U. P., 2007. P. 48113.],   ,     ,    .                (1883).     XIX              .             ,   . ,         -   .   ,      ,        ,   .

   , ,    ,  ,   ,      XIX ,    [38 - Iskin. . 68.].             ,  ,       . ,      ,        ,      ,     .           ;  ,         -  - (. 8),   -.         ,   ,      ,      c .       ,    ,        .




  .


   .

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notes








1


Jones S. Hats: An Anthology. London: V&A Publishing, 2009. P. 51.




2


Jones S. Hats: An Anthology. London: V&A Publishing, 2009. P. 51.




3


Lloyd R. Treatise on Hats. London: Thorowgood, 1819. P. 21. Archival reprint, Winterthur Museum, Part 2, 2134.




4


Woolf V. Mrs Dalloway. London: Penguin, 1992 [1923]. P. 95. .  .:  .   [. . ] //  . . .:  , 1989. . 87.




5


Carter M. Putting a Face on Things. Sydney: Power Institute of Fine Arts, 1997. P. 113.




6


   : panache   ,     ,  . . .




7


Jenkins E. The Tortoise and the Hare. London: Virago, 2010 [1954]. P. 5.




8


Sala G. A. The Hats of Humanity. Manchester: James Gee, 1870. P. 11.




9


   ࠖ        .




10


Rich E. E. The Hudson Bay Company. London: Hudsons Bay Record Society, 1957. P. 14




11


Young A. A Six Months Tour through the North of England. Vol. 3. London: W. Nicoll, 1771. Cit. ex.: McKnight P. Stockport Hatting. Stockport Community Services Division, 2000.




12


Flanagan P. The Lollipop Ladys Garden Shed Gets National Treasure Status // The Telegraph. 2014. March 21. www.telegraph.co.uk/news/earth/environment/conservation/10714510/Lollipop-ladys-garden-shed-gets-national-treasure-status.html.




13


Bernstein H. The Invisible Wall. London: Arrow Books, 2007. P. 3.




14


The Penny Magazine. London: Charles Knight & Co., 1841. P. 45.




15


Cit. ex.: Nevell M. Denton and the Archaeology of the Felt Hatting Industry. Manchester: The Archaeology of Tameside. Vol. 7. P. 83.




16


  (secrtage)  ? ,           .   (carroting)   ,     蠖 -, .            :   :  . .  :      . .:   , 2017. . .




17


          : Corner D. The Tyranny of Fashion // Textile History. 1991. Vol. 22 (2). P. 153178.         .




18


Grossmith W., Grossmith G. Diary of a Nobody. London: Book Society, 1946 [1891]. P. 120. .  .:  .,  .   : [] / . .  ; .  . .: . . .-, 2007. C. 227.




19


The Stockport Advertiser. 1889. February 22. P. 3.




20


         ,   2015     ,       ,  ,   .




21


     (Hatfield)    ,       (     ).    hat  堖   heath, . . .




22


Dony J. A History of the Straw Hat Industry. Luton: The Leagrave Press, 1942. P. 88.




23


Cit. ex.: Bunker S. Strawopolis. Bedfordshire Historical Record Society, 1999. P. 6.




24


Thaarup A. Heads and Tales. London: Cassel & Co., 1956. P. 76.




25


Adburgham A. Shops and Shopping. London: Cassell & Co., 1964. P. 106.




26


Carmichael K., McOmish D., Grech D. The Hat Industry of Luton & Its Buildings. Swindon: English Heritage, 2013. P. 40.




27


Ibid. . 29.




28


Grossmith. . 58 (. . 100).




29


Bennett A. Old Wives Tale. Oxford: World Classics, 1995 [1908]. P. 80. .  .:  .     / . . [ .] . . .:  , 1989. . 91.




30


Thaarup. . 7.




31


Ibid. . 84.




32


    , 2013.




33


Burney F. The Wanderer. Oxford: Worlds Classics, 1991 [1814]. P. 426, 427.




34


du Plessix Grey F. Them. London: Penguin, 2005. P. 22.




35


Erikson A. L. Working London: Eleanor Mosely and other Milliners in the City of London Companies 17001750 // The History Workshop Journal. 2014. Is. 71. P. 163, 164.




36


Gissing G. In the Year of Jubilee. Create Space Independent Publishing, 2012 [1898]. P. 256.




37


Iskin R. Modern Women and Parisian Consumer Culture in Impressionist Painting. Cambridge: C. U. P., 2007. P. 48113.




38


Iskin. . 68.


