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,        ,    ,       .       - -       ,     [3 - Pitman J. On Blondes. From Aphrodite to Madonna: Why Blondes Have More Fun. London: Bloomsbury, 2003. P.227.].                .  2016 ,      -,  ,              10000  .    ,           (. 0.2).   , ,    ,        :    .      ,  24      [4 - CoiffureGate: The High Cost of Hollandes Haircut// BBC News. www.bbc.co.uk/news/blogs-trending-36784083 (   24  2016).].  ,   ,    ,   ,     .       :   , ,  ,        ,    .

,                ,       .    , ,  ,      XIX,          [5 - Mahawatte R. Hair and Fashioned Femininity in Two Nineteenth-Century Novels// Biddle-Perry and Cheang (eds). Hair. . 193203; Ofek G. Representations of Hair in Victorian Literature and Culture. Farnham: Ashgate, 2009.]. -     ,       ;    -     ;             ,   [6 - Bronte C. Jane Eyre (1847). London: Penguin, 2012. P.353. (   :  .   [. . .]. .: , 1988.)].    :    .                   [7 - ., : Velody R. Hair-Dressing in Desperate Housewives: Narration, Characterization and the Pleasures of Reading Hair// Biddle-Perry and Cheang (eds). Hair. p.215227.]. ,     ,    ,        ,  ,       ,   ,     .






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     XVIXVII,   :       ,       . ,               .      XVIXVII[11 - .: Taavitsainen I. Characters and English Almanac Literature: Genre Development and Intertextuality// Sell R.D., Verdonk P.(eds) Literature and the New Interdisciplinarity: Poetics, Linguistics, History. Amsterdam; Atlanta: Rodopi, 1994. P. 168169.].   1570  :



 ,     ,  ,   .  ,        ,   ,         . Ӡ      ,  ,    .       ,  .     , ,  [12 - Copland R. The shepardes kalender. London, 1570. sig. [Lvi verso].].





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       1670?  ,   ,    :

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		Byth colour of hair on the head,
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		and who you were best toimbrace[13 - The English Fortune-Teller. London, 16709.].

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           XVIII  :     -        [15 - ., : de Bois-Regard N.A. Orthop?dia: Or the Art of Correcting and Preventing Deformities in Children. 2vols. London, 1743. Vol.II. p. 1117.].         ,   ,    .  1796       , ,      ,     . ,      ,  ,  ,       ,    ,   ,         ,    . Ӡ     ,  ,  ,  蠫  [16 - Crosbys royal fortune-telling almanack; or, Ladies universal pocket-book, for the year 1796. London [1795]. P.130.].   , ,        ,      ,  ,      ,          .

     , XIX       ,      ,               .        , ,         ,  .      . ,   ,           ,      ,  ,         ,    (.0.4).           XIX[17 - Pearl S.About Faces: Physiognomy in Nineteenth-Century Britain. Cambridge, MA: Harvard UniversityPress, 2010.].        ,          ,         .       , ,  .    :          ࠖ       .






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   ,    .     ,          .  ,   ,   ,    ,   .        .           ,     ,       .       ,                 . ,    1612 ,   ,   :  ,     .          :   [18 - Guillemeau J. Child-birth or, The happy deliuerie of women. London, 1612. sig. L1r, p. 3.].  1680  ,      ,    ,    (   ,    ) ,       .  ,  ,       , 젖[19 - [Anon.] In Holborn over against Fetter-lane, at the sign of the last, liveth a physitian. London, 1680.]. ,      񠖠    ,        , ,    ,       . ,    ,   ,    ,   ,   .  1662      ,     ,    . ,  ,  -  ,       ,   ,           [20 - Torriano G. The second alphabet consisting of proverbial phrases. London, 1662. P.211.]. ,           (    ),  ,   ,     .      1690,     , :

		To Jenney they wisht me, indeed she was fair
		But a pox on her Carrots, I likd not red hair,
		Her skin I did lov, but her hair I did hate,
		I ner in my Life coud love Carrot-pate[21 - [Anon.] A new ballad of an amorous coachman. [London], 1690.].

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     (. 0.5)     .     ,   ,    ,       ,         [22 - Bullied Anorexic is a Cut Above// Metro. 2011. December6. P.9.].     ,    : 2011       ,  ,         -  컠        [23 -      . ., : Harriet Harman Says Ginger Rodent Comment Was Wrong// BBC News. www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-scotland-politics-11658228 (   29  2017).].   ,           ,      , ,    ,     [24 - Jones N. Should Ginger-Bashing Be Considered a Hate Crime?// New Statesman. 2013. January10. www.newstatesman.com/nelson-jones/2013/01/should-ginger-bashing-be-considered-hate-crime (   29  2017).].            ,         (. 0.6).      2013    ,     ,        [25 -       Ginger Parrot. gingerparrot.co.uk (   29  2017).].






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 XXI      ,           .           ,       .   :       ,    ,     .      頖 ,     1%  ,      , , ,   [26 - . : Swami V., Barrett S.British Mens Hair Color Preferences: An Assessment of Courtship Solicitation and Stimulus Ratings// Scandinavian Journal of Psychology. 2011. Vol.52. Is. 6. P.595.].    ,     ,    ,          .           :     .

 ,    , ,     .   ,  , ,      ,  ,    2%:       [27 - Ibid.].   ,     ,    ,     .       :      ,   , ,  ,      , 頖[28 - Pitman. On Blondes. p. 155201.].     ,        .  1930?          ,      .    1931     (. 0.7)      1953  ,         蠖    [29 -   (Platinum Blonde, 1931);   (Blonde Crazy, 1931);   (Blonde Venus, 1932);   (The Blonde Captive, 1932);    (Blondie of the Follies, 1932);   (Blond Bombshell, 1933);    (Dont Bet on Blondes, 1935); - (Blond Cheat, 1938);  (Blondie, 1938);   (Strawberry Blonde, 1941);    (My Favourite Blonde, 1942);     (Andy Hardys Blonde Trouble, 1944);   (Blonde Fever, 1944);   (Incendiary Blonde, 1945);    (Blondies Big Moment, 1947);      (The Beautiful Blonde from Bashful Bend, 1949);    (Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, 1953).          ,     .       :     (Three Blondes in His Life, 1961);   (A Blonde in Love, 1965);    (The Loves of a Blonde, 1965); Ӡ   (Blondes Have More Guns, 1995);   - (The Last of the Blonde Bombshells, 2000);   (Legally Blonde, 2001);   (Totally Blonde, 2001);   (Blonde Ambition, 2007);   (Blonde and Blonder, 2007);   (Private Valentine: Blonde and Dangerous, 2008).].   ,      ,        ,     .          -   ,       -  ,   ,         (. 0.8 0.9).






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. 0.8.          .  ,   The American Magazine 1942,   






. 0.9.   :           . 1947






. 0.10.      -  ,  2009  ,      .   ࠖ         



        ,   [30 - Jones G. Blonde and Blue-Eyed? Globalizing Beauty, c.1945 c.1980// Economic History Review. 2008. Vol.61. P. 125154.].       (. 0.10), ,    ,      . ,  ,      .  䠖       .       ,  ,            ,    .  ,             [31 - Pitman. On Blondes. . 4.].

      ,  -,  ,     -        [32 -        , ,             . .: Swami and Barrett, British Mens Hair Color Preferences; Gue?guen N. Hair Color and Courtship: Blond Women Received More Courtship Solicitations and Redhead Men Received More Refusals// Psychological Studies. 2012. Vol.57. P. 369375.].      ,          ,       ,      . -,       : , ,   ,, .   ,     ,   .              .  ,   .       ,      ,   ,   .    ,     .        .


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          ,       .          .    , ,   ;             . Ƞ     ,         ,       . ,              ,   .        ,    ࠖ  .             ,     ,    ,    .

    . , 1617      ,       :    , ,    [33 - The Diaries of Lady Anne Clifford/ d. D.J.H. Clifford. Stroud: Alan Sutton, 1990. P.56.].   XVII      ,      .          .       ,          ,     [34 - Phillips C. Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present. London: Thames and Hudson, 1996. P.81.]. ,      ,   1701:  ,     .        [35 - London Gazette. 4September 17018 September 1701.     XVIII .: Holm .Sentimental Cuts: Eighteenth-Century Mourning Jewelry with Hair// Eighteenth-Century Studies. 2004. Vol.38. P. 139143.].           :  ,  ,                 .              (1712)[36 -    ,      1714 1717: Pope A. The Rape of the Lock// Martin Price (ed.). The Restoration and the Eighteenth Century. The Oxford Anthology of Literature. Oxford: Oxford UniversityPress, 1973. P. 321344 (  . 321, 337).].        ,         ,         . ,   ,     ,      ( IV,  113116):

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    ,      .         ,  - ,       ,       ,             .      ;        ,   -:       ,    ,       ,      ,      ,     , , ,    . ,       ,    ,      ,      ;     ,            .   ,          ;         ,       ,  ,      , , ,      [38 - Digby K. Letter Book 16331635. Smith College, Rare Book Room Cage, MS 134, p.4041.     ,        .].


  XIX           [39 -       .: Sheumaker H. This Lock You See: Nineteenth-Century Hair Work as the Commodified Self// Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 1997. Vol.1. P. 421445. ( : . ߠ  ,  ,  :   XIX   //  : , , . 2008. 7. .95121); Rahm V.L. Human Hair Ornaments// Minnesota History. 1974. Vol.44. P.7074; Pointon M. Brilliant Effects: A Cultural History of Gem Stones and Jewellery. New Haven; London: published for The Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art by Yale UniversityPress, 2009. P. 293311.].      ,         ,     ,   . ,                    ࠖ   ,  [40 - March R. The Page Affair: Lady Caroline Lambs Literary Cross-Dressing. www.sjsu.edu/faculty/douglass/caro/PageAffair.pdf (   22  2017).].      , , ,    ,    ,      ,      (1855)[41 - Gaskell E. North and South. London: Penguin, 2012. P.313.].     ,             (.0.11).     ,   1888   ,     ,        :    ,     <> ʠ        ,  [42 - Cit. ex: Gere C., Rudge J. Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria: A Mirror to the World. London: British Museum Press, 2010. P.73.].         .    , ,   ,        (. 0.12).      ,   :  ,   ࠖ (. muff ), ,   [43 - Ibid. p. 167, 170. Fig. 124.].






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         ,       ,   .  ,     ,  ,           .       ,       ,        .     ,   :   ,     1827  ;    ,     1855;  ,     ,   .      ,  ø堖,         (. 0.13).      ,         [44 -   : Beethoven, RPS MS 406; Bronte?, Egerton MS 3268 B; Dickens, RP 8738/3; Nelson, Add MS 56226; Goethe, Zweig MS 155; Hanoverians, Add MS 88883/4/8; Boli?var, Add MS 89075/12/1.].






. 0.13.      , ,    III.      1927  ,   .






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  ,   ,   ,          .       .     ,      , ,       ,           .      - ,  ,-,  ,           : . ,        2016         18750.    ,     :      ,      ,     ,    (. 0.14).            :     115000     [45 -    ,            119500. .: Most Expensive Lock of Hair// Time. content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1917097_ 1917096_1917086,00.html (   18  2017).].

           .           -  , ,   .           ,     .   ,        ,        .   -  ,           .  XIX         (. 0.15).   1851         .      , , , , 蠖,    蠖   ,   ,   <>     ,   [46 - Ofek. Representations of Hair. . 43.        .: Gere and Rudoe. Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria. p. 164170.].        :    1855         ,    [47 - Ofek. Representations of Hair. . 44.].






. 0.15. ,     . . 1850



            . ,    ,     , ,  頖,       XVIII XIX (. 0.16).      .    ,    ,    ,  . ,      ,    ;    ,     (. 0.17).






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     :      ?        XVIII,        ,             .         ,         ,    ,   ,   ,      ,   .  ,    , ,  1747,      ,  ,   ,     (. 0.18).       ,       .  1744     ,         .              .       ,    (      ),     蠫  ,   [48 - General Advertiser (1744). 1748. July 5.].          , , ,   ,  1738         5000  [49 - Reads Weekly Journal or British Gazetteer. 23 September 1738.].         ,     , 1774     [50 - Hair// London Chronicle or Universal Evening Post. 24 March 177426 March 1774.].       ,        ,        ,   ?  , , ?   (  ,   ). ࠖ     [51 - ., : Pepys. VI. . 210.].   ,   ,         :         XVII XVIII[52 - Spufford M. The Great Reclothing of Rural England: Petty Chapmen and their Wares in the Seventeenth Century. London: Hambledon Press, 1984. P. 5051.].           ,          ,     [53 - Country News Gloucester, Nov. 25// Whitehall Evening Post or London Intelligencer. 28 November 174930 November 1749.].






. 0.18.  ,        . 1777



      , -, ,    ,     .  ,         .  XVIII     :     ,   ,     : ,    ,      .     ,  ,       . ,      ,  ,          . ,  XVIII,    ,    ,        .    ,       1716.         ,     .          [54 - St. Jamess Evening Post. 10 March 171613 March 1716.].

      ,        . , 1715       ,       .    20  (9 ), ,   ,  ,    20     [55 -    XVIII       :     ,           . (. .)]       3000  [56 - Daily Courant. 1715. October5.     : OfficerL.H., Williamson S.H. Five Ways to Compute the Relative Value of a UK Pound Amount, 1270 to Present// MeasuringWorth. 2017. www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/ (   12  2017).].           ,      .              ,      1725:      --     .   ,        [57 - Daily Post. 1725. December 24.].        ,       ,     1729  ,     ,       ,   [58 - Weekly Journal or British Gazetteer. 1729. August 9.].






. 0.19.     Le Bon Ton,     ,     .  1865



 XIX       ,          (. 0.19).               ,  ,  ,  ,      .       XX:            Hairdressers Weekly Journal 1918 ,   80%    - .        ,               ,         .            500 , ,   ,  20   ( 870    )[59 - Zdatny S.(ed.) Hairstyles and Fashion: A Hairdressers History of Paris. Oxford: Berg, 1999. P. 1516, 160.    : www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/ (   12  2017).].






. 0.20.      ,     .  , 



,          .        :           堖     ,     (. 0.20).       .  1863    The Hairdressers Journal ,    , ,     ,     .     :  ,    ? ,      .       ,      ࠖ         [60 - The Hairdressers Journal, devoted to the Interests of the Profession. [London, 1863, 1864]. P. 4344.].

               . Ӡ ,  1824,         .   , ,    12 ,          20  ,       ,      (fronts)   [61 - Sitwell G. The Dew, It Lyes on the Wood// Osbert Sitwell (ed.) Two Generations. London: Macmillan, 1940. P.3. Front   ,    .].   ,         ,     .       ,  ,  -    .   ,  ,     , ,       ,      .   , 1889,      ,     ,   ,   ,       [62 - Attempted Theft of a Ladys Hair// Cincinnati Daily Gazette. 1879. October30. P.6 (    : San Francisco Bulletin. 1879. November5. P.[1]. A Theft of Beautiful Hair// Philadelphia Inquirer. 1889. December8. P.2.].    The Times  1870 ,       ,   , .       ( ),         .      :           .      ,  [63 - The Times. 1870. January 20. P.7.].       ,      蠖  ,    ,    ,       ,,        [64 - Cunnington .W., Cunnington P.Handbook of English Costume in the Nineteenth Century. 3rd edn. London: Faber, 1970. P. 480481, 510512.].

        - .            ,          ,         .  ,         , ,    .        , ,     ,          [65 -       : Tarlo E. Entanglement: The Secret Lives of Hair. London: Oneworld Publications, 2016;    : Edwards E. Hair, Devotion and Trade in India// Biddle-Perry and Cheang (eds). Hair. p. 149166.].        ࠖ,     .               (. 0.21).  , ,     ,        .        ,        .      XVIII,    ,     .   ,           ,      .   ,     , ,          .   ,           .  ,    ,        ,   . ,       ,     1912,     ,        ,    , , .  ,  ,   , ,  :   , .






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   ,   ,    . ʠ    ,   ,       [67 -  , .  : Fanshawe, Lady Ann (16251680), MS.7113/29.        ,     Cantharis vesicatoria,     .         XX.].          .   ,    ,   : ,  򠖠    .     ,      .        (  ,   ),  ,    ,  .     ,       ,      .






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          .    ,    ,       .        ,    ,    . ,  ,   ,      (The widowes treasure),  1586,      ,      ,    ,  -, ,  [68 - Partridge J. The widowes treasure plentifully furnished with sundry precious and approoued secretes in phisicke and chirurgery for the health and pleasure of mankind. London, 1586, sig. Dvrv; Banister J. An antidotarie chyrurgicall containing great varietie and choice medicines. London, 1589. P. 166167.].        ,    ,   ,       :     1582,         (The Accomplishd ladys delight),        1670?   XVIII[69 - Levens P.A right profitable booke for all disseases Called The pathway to health. London, 1582. P.2; Woolley H. The Accomplishd ladys delight. London, 1675. P.174.].      ,    ꠫   (The Queens closet, 1655), , -,    ,     頖,   1675  1710.          ,                 , ,           , 蠫        .    ,       ( / ,    ) ,     .           ,     - [70 - W.M. The Queens closet opened incomparable secrets in physic, chyrurgery, preserving, and candying &c. London, 1655. P. 212214;  , .  : Boyle Family, MS.1340/digitized image 154.    ,        ,   ;    .].

,         ,  ,             , ,    .      ,     XVII,   ,      . 16751725.    ,         .         , ,   ,     ,   ,      ,        [71 -  , .  : English Recipe Book, MS.7391/digitized image 5; Elizabeth Okeover (and others), MS.3712/ digitized image17.          : MS.7391/digitized image 67 MS.3712/digitized image 105.     (Aspin R. Who Was Elizabeth Okeover?// Medical History. 2000. Vol.44. P. 531540),    MS.7391    ,     .         .    re: -,    retort, ࠖ ,   .].

          ,     ,   ,   .    ,           -. ,     ,          ,       .  ,   ,     ,         .         [72 - .: Smith V. Clean: A History of Personal Hygiene and Purity. Oxford: Oxford UniversityPress, 2007. P. 5153.].        [73 -     .],        ,        ⠖                 .  ,   (  ) ,       ,        ,   ,     .






. 1.3.   XIX,   .        ,         (18191824;  1, 17),       (1871;     ).      ,   



ʠ XVII           .           ,     Athenian Gazette  1693.  ,     ,               ,    [74 - Athenian Gazette or Casuistical Mercury. 1693. May 16.].    XVIII          .  ,    ,        ,   [75 -     .  5  .  .: Vincent S.The Anatomy of Fashion: Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today. Oxford: Berg, 2003. P. 1517, 3133.]. ,                 ,  ,    ,     (. 1.3).






. 1.4.    . XIX.         XVI   XIX



               ,    .      XVIII[76 - .: Corbyn & Co., chemists and druggists, London, Manufacturing recipe books, 17481851: London, Wellcome Library, MS 54465450.]    XIX XX,           ,      .    ,      .         ,   .     ,        .        ,        XVI XVII, XVIII,    ,         ,       ,      (. 1.4).   1770 : ,   ,         ,       ,   [77 -  , . Med. Ephemera EPH160B, Hair care ephemera, Box9, Bears Grease (Thomas Cross, Holborn, 1770).].   XVIII            -,  XIX     .       (The Druggists General Receipt Book) 1850ࠖ ,       ,      ,          [78 - Ross A. A treatise on bears grease. London, 1795; Beasley H. The Druggists General Receipt Book. London: John Churchill, 1850. P. 212225.].           ,                 [79 - The Star Patent Medicine Stores. Oxford, [c.1890]. . 11.  , : John Johnson Collection of Printed Ephemera, Patent Medicines 14 (62)// The John Johnson Collection: An Archive of Printed Ephemera.].    ,   ,   :       XVI    XX.    , ,          ,         XVI   1930[80 -           Pharmaceutical Formulas,      1898 (     1919). Ƞ 10?  1934  ,         (. 9).].

          ,   ,      Athenian Gazette 1693.   XVIII       , ,      ,       .            ,    .                񠖠   ,      . ,    ,     ,    .  Proctor & Gamble,     ,        ,     1837        ,  . Unilever,    ,      ,        .      Schwarzkopf LOral: 1903 1907 .        ,    ;             ,    [81 - Jones G. Blonde and Blue-eyed? Globalizing Beauty, c.1945c.1980// Economic History Review. 2008. Vol.61. P.128; EH. p. 253, 349, 382.].

       ,           .  ,  堖  ,       ?      ,            ?          ,     ?  ,            : ,             ,   . ʠ         , ,       .

    ,   ,      ,     ,   ,  .           ,      ,           ,   .      1660,      ,      ,     : ,    [82 - Wrecker J.J. Cosmeticks, or, the beautifying part of physic. London, 1660. P.74.].        :     ,         ,    ;       ,   ,   -  [83 - Jeamson T. Artificiall embellishments, or Arts best directions how to preserve beauty or procure it. Oxford, 1665. P.108.].

          ,   ,   .       ,    .      ,         .   ,   ,     :    , ,  ,      ,          ,    [84 -  , .  : Bridget Hyde (1733), MS.2990/digitized image 20; Boyle Family, MS.1340/digitized image 109.].  ( )     ,     [85 - Stevens Cox, s.v. curling irons and variations; EH. p. 335, 366.]. , ,           (Artificiall embellishments) :     ,           [86 - Jeamson. Artificiall embellishments. . 110.].            XVIII,    .  , -,     (17881824), ,  ,           en papillote,  .  ,  , : ߠ ,      . ,  , ,  [87 - Gronow R.H. Captain Gronows Recollections and Anecdotes of the Camp, the Court, and the Clubs, At the Close of the last War with France. London: Smith, Elder and Co., 1864. P. 151152.].

, ,      ,         ?   ,   , ,    ,     XX               [88 - Π  .: EH. p. 303305.].  ,  ,  ,     ,           .  ,  ,      ,      .

   ,                 ,  ,  ,    :   ,  Athenian Gazette 1693   ,         .    ,       ,    ,        ,      .    XVIII  ,      ,    , ,   ,   .  ,    ,    ,      ,       .   ,        :    ,   ,    ,       [89 - Ritchie D. A Treatise on the Hair. London, 1770. P. 2627; Moore W. The art of hair-dressing. Bath, [1780]. P. 1819.].       : ,      ,   ,    :         .  ,                LOral         .   , 1931                 ,     ,      .       ,      [90 - Foan. p. 295296.].        ,    (PPD),   ,        ,    .   ,   ,     ,    ,     [91 - Hughes S.Could Your Hair Dye Kill You// The Guardian. 2011. November 28. www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/nov/28/could-hair-dye-kill-you (   31 2017).].






. 1.5.   . . 18701900



        ,    ,   : -,      ,  ; -,       ,   ; -,         (    ).       1664:          . Ƞ ,         ,     ,          .        ,        :



     ,      ,     ,  ,   ,  ,    ,    ,    ,      ,      :  ,    ,   [92 - Platter F. Platerus golden practice of physick fully and plainly disovering. London, 1664. P. 539, 540.].


  XIX,         ,   ,       ,    (. 1.5).      ,        .     - (17851871),   ,         .     1826       , , ,      .       ,      :



        򠖠  󠖠        <>    ,         ,      ,     [93 - Pu?cklers Progress: The Adventures of Prince Pu?ckler-Muskau in England, Wales and Ireland as Told in Letters to his Former Wife, 18269/ Transl. Flora Brennan. London: Collins, 1987. P.177.].


  -    ,  ,  1837,      ,  -       (. 1.6).






. 1.6.   -.         ,    ,         ,      ,     .      ,    ,     ,     



      ,  ,     ,    ,  ,    , -,   .       ,               . ,    ,        ࠖ   , ,          . ,  ,  ,      ;      ;   ,       .                           .

       : ,        .  , ,,  ,  .  ( ,   ,   ),  ,          ,    ,    ,  [94 - Durbin G. Wig, Hairdressing and Shaving Bygones. Oxford: Shire, 1984. P.12; White.L. American Artifacts of Personal Adornment 16801820: A Guide to Identification and Interpretation. Lanham, MD: Altamira Press, 2005. P. 104110.  .: EH, s.v. comb.].            ,         :  ,      : menez moi doucement,       (. 1.7). ,       I,      .      ,   ,        ,    󠖠       ,, ,  .         :



 , ,    ,     .     ?      ?    :       ,      ,     .  . , !    ,   ,    !     ,    [95 - Erondell P.The French garden: for English ladyes and gentlewomen to walke in. London, 1605. sig. E1v.].





. 1.7.  ,  . . 1600.    ( )      



, ,   , ,            .     ,       ,             .           .      ,      1680,      ,     ,          ,    堖         .  ,        (    ,    )   .    1642      , , ,      , 1730      ,     (,   )[96 - Spufford M. The Great Reclothing of Rural England: Petty Chapmen and their Wares in the Seventeenth Century. London: Hambledon Press, 1984. P. 9495, 153, 188189, 204205.].       ,  XVIII       ,    : , ,   .       ,         1860?     [97 - Durbin, Wig, Hairdressing and Shaving. . 27. Π  : Beaujot A. Victorian Fashion Accessories. London: Berg, 2012. P. 139177.].






. 1.8.  . 1954.        



     .    ,         ,     ,       XVIII.              .        ,        . Ƞ      ,    -.         .  ,  ,   ,     ,        .   ,     ,        (. 1.8). , ,      ,   ,     堖     (. 1.9).           : ,            軠    [98 - .: Ofek G. Representations of Hair in Victorian Literature and Culture. Farnham: Ashgate, 2009, esp. .3435, 4041.].






. 1.9.   Edwards Harlene. . 1890. ,      ,  ? .    , ,     



      ,      頖.  1880? Pall Mall Electric Association       .   ,   , ,       ,  ,       ,            (. 1.10).     , ,       ,    (,      ).     ,     .     ,   1862:        . ,   ,        ,  .           (. 1.11).     ,    ,   1904;          [99 - Durbin, Wig, Hairdressing and Shaving. . 27.].






. 1.10.        . 1880?






. 1.11. .,  ,  . XIX.           ,     .   :  



        .  1880?      ,      ,      [100 - ., : Balmanno Squire, Surgeon to the British Hospital for Diseases of the Skin. Superfluous Hair and the Means of Removing It. London: J.A. Churchill, 1893. P.52.].          1900?.          :     ,   ,       (. 1.12).       .   , ,       ,    : ,          ,    . Ѡ        ,    ,  : , . ߠ  . ߠ,   ,     ,   ,  .           .     ,    , ,   ,   [101 - Vidal. p. 3233.].        XIX.     ;   1900         .        ,      .

   ,    ,          ,        ,    .    ,    ,   .






. 1.12.        ,   . , 1928




 

      ,          ,     .        ,         ,    .          .   (16201706), ,   ,      ,      ,      [102 - The Diary of John Evelyn/ d. E.S. de Beer. 6vols. Oxford: Oxford UniversityPress, 1955. Vol.III. . 87 (13 August 1653).].     :        ,      [103 - Liebault J. Trois Livres de lembellissment et de lornement du corps humain, 1632 (1st edn, 1582). Cit. ex: Vigarello G. Concepts of Cleanliness: Changing Attitudes in France since the Middle Ages. Cambridge: Cambridge UniversityPress, 1988. P.83.].        :       ,           .         ,  1558,  ,     ,  ⠫, , , ,   ,    [104 - Bullein W. The Government of Health (1558). Cit. ex: Smith. Clean. . 209.].

    ,      (. 1.13).        䠖 ,     :  ,        [105 - Π    .: Smith. Clean. p. 1724.  ,       ,          (Hale C.M., PolderJ.A. ABCs of Safe and Healthy Child Care: A Handbook for Child Care Providers. US Public Health Service, 1996. P.91).].         ,          (. 1.14).             , 堖   ࠖ       .

 ,       ,   ,     .     ,       ,  ,          .        ,            ,     .      ,     [106 - ., : Sennert D. The Art of chirurgery explained in six parts. London, 1663. P.2626; Jeamson. Artificiall embellishments. . 123.]. ,      ࠖ ࠖ .  ,      ,         [107 - Sennert. Art of chirurgery. . 2626.].    ,   -  ,           [108 - EH. p. 102103.].






. 1.13.  . ,   ( ). . 16521653






. 1.14.    , Pediculus humanuscapitis



,  ,  ,   ,   , ,  .  1845,     ,      ,     ,        [109 - Freeling A. (ed.) Gracefulness: Being a Few Words Upon Form and Features. London: Routledge, [1845]. P.204.].      ,          . ,       頖 .

     ,   ,      XIX[110 -   ,        ,               XIX: Vigarello. Concepts of Cleanliness. . 174.].         ,       1830     (The Whole Art of Dress).    ,     ,   ,        .   ,       ,  ,  .   ,     ,         .  ,    ,   ,     ,     ,          XXI.

   XVIII ,     ,   .    champo  ,    ,      . Ѡ XIX            (    ),      ,   [111 - Stevens Cox, s.v. shampoo.].      (. 1.15),      ,      .     ,    ,        .         .     :        ,   .  ,      .    ,    ,  蠖   XVII. ,    ,  1950?    ,      [112 - Pharmaceutical Formulas. Vol.2. 11th edn. London: Chemist and Druggist, 1956. P.804.].






. 1.15.   



,   ,      ,   (. 1.16)   .       ,  ,       .     ,     1890?,        .  ,          ,        ,         .      , -,   ,          .       1897:    .   ,     ,   26       Emile and Co.         .   ,     ,     .   ,      .  ,           .  ,    ,  ,     :      .           ,       ,                 [113 - Π,   : The Times. 1897. July 22. . 7; 1897. July 30. . 9; 1897. August 9. . 10; 1897. August 12. . 10; 1897. September 16. .2; 1898. September 3. . 10. Π    : The Times. 1909. October 22. . 21; 1910. October 28. . 4; 1909. November2. . 19; 1909. February 5. . 10. Π  : The Times. 1910. May 31. . 7.].






. 1.16.        . . XX



        ,          ,               [114 - The Times. 1898. September 3. . 10.]. -      ,       .        .     :    -  .       :      - . ,  ,   ,   ,       ,   .      ,   ,  -    ,           .

       .      ,    ,       ,      .   ,          ,  1909   Harrods      [115 - Π,   : The Times. 1909. July 16. . 4; 1909. August 25. . 2; 1909. September 25. . 2; 1909. September 29. . 2; 1909. October 2. .3; 1909. October 6. . 14; 1910. February 5. . 10; 1910. March 25. . 4.].         :  , ,    ,       - 렖 .        ,      ,         .           ,   .    ,     .    ,         .          ,      ,  , ,  Harrods      ,         ;       .  , Harrods  , ,    .   ,    ,       1930?[116 - The Times. 1910. February 5. . 10; Cox C. Good Hair Days: A History of British Hairstyling. London: Quartet Books, 1999. P.35.].






. 1.17.     Edwards Cremex Shampoo Powder. . XIX



   ,        ,  ,      ࠖ ,         (   )     XX (, ,  ). ,     ,  ,        ,    .      ,    Harlenes Cremex,   ,  ,      .  , Cremex,  ,      .   ,       ,         (.1.17).  :



-    .        ,        ,      ,   [117 -  , . Med. Ephemera EPH154, Hair care ephemera, Box 1.].


   ,       ,  ,       .               .             Cremex:  ,    ,    ;   頖  .

  , ,     蠖,  , ,  .   XIX, ,      (the great unwashed)   ,     ,           (.1.18)[118 - .: Skoski J.R. Public Baths and Washhouses in Victorian Britain, 18421914 (PhDthesis). Indiana University, Bloomington, 2000.]. ,      ,     ,    , ,     XX.  ,  1928,     .         -,      ,   堖     .   1940?      [119 - Vidal. p. 7, 27, 54.]. ,           , ,   ,      [120 - Jones. Globalizing Beauty. . 138.].  1949  ,  ,            [121 - Kemsley W.F.F., Ginsberg D. Expenditure on Hairdressing, Cosmetics and Toilet Necessities. Cit. ex: Smith. Clean. . 338.].

  XX              [122 - Jones. Globalizing Beauty. . 134 (), 135.].              ,   , ,       ,      ,  ,            , ,   .






. 1.18.     - .         .         1960?  



    ,         .         ,       ,     ,     . ,           ,          .       ,       ,,    ,       .




 2

   





         (16331703)    5  1662,     .  .       ,     ,  .  (. 3.4) ,        ,   - ,      ,     ,      [123 - Pepys. III. . 213. ( : one that could dress a head well.         , .   XVIIIXIX       ,  .. .)].   ,     ,    ,       .         , ,      ,    ,     (. 2.1).         ,   .  ,      ,       ,  ,     [124 - Pepys. III. . 213 (  ); V. . 72; VIII. . 35 IX. . 424 (  ); VIII. . 280 IX. . 201 (  ); E.g. III. . 96; VI. . 21 VIII. . 531 (  ); IX. . 175 (     ).].        ,     ,        :      ,  ,        .

 ,   ,      ,            [125 - Pepys. III. . 213; The Letters and Journals of Lady Mary Coke/ d. J.A.Home. 4vols. 188996. (Repr. Bath: Kingsmead Reprints, 1970.) Vol.II. . 303.].       ,   .   (17191805)    : ߠ,       [126 - Aspinall-Oglander C. Admirals Widow: Being the Life and Letters of the Hon. Mrs. Edward Boscawen from 1761 to 1805. London: Hogarth Press, 1942. P.126. 20 December 1787.].     ,  -.      (1861),        ,       ,         ,   [127 - Beeton I. The Book of Household Management. London: S.O.Beeton, 1861; facsimile repr. Jonathan Cape, 1977. P. 980, 978.].    (. 1741)       .  ,  XVIII,           ,  .         ,      ,   ,    .              ,   .    , ,           ,     ,  .  ,   ,      ,       ,    [128 - MacDonald J. Memoirs of an Eighteenth-Century Footman: John MacDonalds Travels (17451779)/ d. John Beresford. London: Routledge, 1927.].






. 2.1.   



                .           .        XVIII,         ,       .        ,       .      ,  ,     . , ,    Morning Herald  4  1781     ,          ,     ,        [129 - Morning Herald and Daily Advertiser. 1781. January 4.].           -, -, , ,  ,     ,  .           ,  ,           [130 - Ibid. 1783. June 7.].            ,    ,        :      ,       ,  蠫-   ; ,       ,      ,    [131 - Ibid. 1782. June 11; Daily Advertiser. 1778. June 22.].

      ,    ,   , ,         ,   .  XVI     , ,    . ,      ,    I.    1619     , ,  ?          [132 - SP 14/107 fol. 121, March (?) 1619.].      ,     II,  ,     - [133 - Pepys. IX. . 454.].  1747 .         -          .       ,    :      ,    .  ,     [134 - Campbell R. The London tradesman. Being a compendious view of all the trades. London, 1747. P. 209210.].






. 2.2.     XIX.   ,     ,  .    ,    ,   ,   ,    ,  ,  






. 2.3. P    1778   ,  ,       



  ,      (tire-woman), , ,    .   ,   ,    .   XVIII      :     II 1727 ,      ; 1795,   ,       [135 - Corson R. Fashions in Hair: The First Five Thousand Years. London: Peter Owen, 1971. P.360; Hart J. An address to the public, on the subject of the starch and hair-powder manufacturies. London, [1795]. P.61.    .   .: Barrell J. The Spirit of Despotism: Invasions of Privacy in the 1790s. Oxford: Oxford UniversityPress, 2006. P.165, n. 72.].     ,         (.2.2),      ⠖      .   ,     (. 2.3),         ,       . XVIII     .         .     ,       ,   III,     .  1619         ,      ,  1788   200    ,      [136 - Court and Private Life in the Time of Queen Charlotte: Being the Journals of Mrs Papendiek, Assistant Keeper of the Wardrobe and Reader to Her Majesty/ d. Mrs Vernon Delves Broughton. 2vols. London: Richard Bentley and Son, 1887. Vol.II. P.5. ..         1784  1809.  ,     :     ;  ,    ,    : The Court Journals and Letters of Frances Burney. Vol.1/ Ed. Peter Sabor. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 2011. P.25. No. 116. P.104.].       ,      22000 [137 -     : Officer L.H., Williamson S.H.Five Ways to Compute the Relative Value of a UK Pound Amount, 1270 to Present// MeasuringWorth. 2017. www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/ (   12  2017).]. ,  ,       ,  ,   ,    ,    .              򠖠-    ,          ,    -,   ,     -,      ,        (. 2.4).






. 2.4. -   .    XIX.  ,   ,      .      ,      ,  ,  ,      



   (17651840),     ,         .     ,   ,           ꠖ       ,     젖    [138 - Journals of Mrs Papendiek. II. . 49.].          .       , ,  ,      .    ,         ,      ,           . ,     ,         ,  ,         ,  ,      ,  ,     [139 - Ibid. I. . 173; I. . 222; I. .185; I. . 199; I. . 173; I. . 222; I. . 237; I. . 292; II. .171.        ,   ,  .: Court Journals of Frances Burney. . 17, n. 75.].     ,      ,  .        , ,   ,   ,    :           [140 - Journals of Mrs Papendiek. II. . 111; II. . 142.].

           ,       .             .        .       ,            .   ,      (17401803),     ,     ,        ,    [141 - Woodforde X. . 27.].    (17521840)  , ,    ,    ,   ,      . ʠ ,            [142 - Court Journals of Frances Burney. . 96, 104 with n. 356.].      .  1780,    (17321811)       ,             [143 - The Memoirs of Richard Cumberland/ d. Richard Dircks. 2vols in 1. New York: AMS Press, 2002. Vol.II. P.14.].

         .     (19041980) , ,      ,          ,          [144 - Beaton C. The Glass of Fashion. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1954. P. 1314.].        ,     XX     .     ,    ,    ,      , ,              .         .        ,          ,     .   XXI 88% ,    ,  ,    79%  [145 -   2016: Hair and Beauty Industry Statistics// National Hairdressers Federation. www.nhf.info/about-the-nhf/hair-and-beauty-industry-statistics/ (   18  2016).].          :     ,            ,[146 - How Many Famous Female Hairdressers Can you Name?// BBC News. bbc.co.uk/news/business-38267758 (   11  2016).].




          .      ,         ,   ,   .       - ,   ,      . , , , ,             1745[147 - Pelling M. The Common Lot: Sickness, Medical Occupations and the Urban Poor in Early Modern England. London: Longman, 1998. P.208; Evenden D. Gender Difference in the Licensing and Practice of Female and Male Surgeons in Early Modern England// Medical History. 1998. No. 42. P. 194216.].           :  ,      ,     ,    .        (. 2.5).






. 2.5. ,   . 1762.     ,   ( ,    ),     ,     .       .    .     



,    ,     . ,            ,  ,  ,    .  16361637  ,   I,  91         60        ,       21 000  [148 -     : Officer L.H., Williamson S.H.Five Ways to Compute the Relative Value of a UK Pound Amount, 1270 to Present// MeasuringWorth. 2017. www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/ (   13  2017).].         :   ,      I,   2  [149 - Stuart Royal Proclamations.Vol. II. Royal Proclamations of King Charles I 16251646/ d. James Larkin. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1983. P.88.].

     .  ,     ,           .    , , ,       ,     , ,     .  ,    ( )   ,       ,    .     ⠫,       ⠫  -.  ,      ,  ,      [150 - Pepys. VII. . 278 ( ⠫); VIII. . 133 (  ⠫); IV. . 312 ( ); VIII. . 234 ( ); I. . 200 (  ).].            .     ,       .     ,  ,     ,  .          ,  .       ,   ,  ,     ,    .






. 2.6.     XIX.        ,  ,  ,    .           John Bull,    1820



 ,      .     ,   젖, ,     蠖   .     ,      ,    ,    [151 - Pepys. I. . 298.].        ,         .   ,           ,   ,   ,  1664        ,    [152 - SP 29/101 fol. 16.].  , ,     :  ,               [153 -     .  3.  .: Proctor R.W.The Barbers Shop. Manchester; London, 1883. P. 1356; Theologos. Shaving: A Breach of the Sabbath. London, 1860; Andrews W. At the Sign of the Barbers Pole: Studies in Hirsute History. 1904; repr. [n.p.]: Dodo Press, [n.d.]. P. 1517.].       (Sunday Closing Act) 1930,      ,    ,        [154 - Foan. . 507.].

  ,         ,        (. 2.6).      (18161881),   ,   1826   ,               . -           .



           ,            .          ,   [ ],    ,          ,     [155 - Proctor. The Barbers Shop. p. 5657.].


       ,      ,  ,  .   , ,    󠖠       [156 -  1600    : Pelling M. Appearance and Reality: Barber-surgeons, the Body and Disease// A.L.Beier, R. Finlay (eds). London 15001700: The Making of a Metropolis. London: Longman, 1986. P.94. Π  .: Maguire L. Petruccio and the Barbers Shop// Studies in Bibliography. 1998. Vol.51. P. 11819; Pelling. The Common Lot. p. 2223; Cox S.s.v. barber music.].      ,         :     ,    ,   ,  , ,     [157 - Pepys. I. . 90; V. . 352; IV. . 237.].      ,         :            , ?        [158 - Pepys. III. . 233; III. . 201.].






. 2.7. , . . 



     .            :             (. 2.7).          ,   ,       ,   .  1786         (17571830).       -,  , .    ,    .       1  6[159 - Woodforde. XI. . 145.]. ,  ,   ,   -,          ,         .    ,  ,   ,      (. 2.8).   ,      (    ),    .        ,  ,   ,  ,     .

        ,          ,     .  XVII    ,   :     ,         (. 2.9)[160 - Evenden. Gender Difference in the Licensing and Practice of Female and Male Surgeons. p. 196197, 201.  .: Willen D. Guildswomen in the City of York, 15601700// The Historian. 1984. Vol.43. P.217.]. ,  ,  ,    1702,  ,     ,   XVIII         (. 2.5 2.10)[161 - Murray I. The London Barbers// Ian Burn (ed.). The Company of Barbers and Surgeons. London: Ferrand Press, 2000. P.77.].       ,       (17661833) 1815    -.  ,     ,  ,  ,   : ,      ,       [162 - Smith J.T.Ancient Topography of London. London: John Thomas Smith, 1815. P.38.].  , ,   ,   , ,  -  ,    젖 , ,   .     .    -     .     ,  1876, 1936    .  1901             ;       .       ,      : ,  ,  򠖠  .          ,      . , ,    1951[163 - DM. 1936. October 7. . 16; 1911. September 22. . 11; 1951. July 2. . 3.].






. 2.8.  . 1778.        ,       ,    ,   ,   ,    .           ,    ,   .    



        .         ,   ,  , , ,  , ,  .       :   , ,  ,     ,    ,      .       ,   ,   ,    .   ,     [164 - Pepys. I. . 219.].         .        , -    ,   .     ,    ,   .       蠖,   , ,   .   ,      .




  .


   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/s-dzh-vinsent/volosy-illustrirovannaya-istoriya/)  .

      Visa, MasterCard, Maestro,    ,   ,     ,  PayPal, WebMoney, ., QIWI ,       .



notes



1


Biddle-Perry G., Cheang S.(eds) Hair: Styling, Culture and Fashion. Oxford: Berg, 2008. P.246.




2


Weitz R. Rapunzels Daughters: What Womens Hair Tell Us About Womens Lives. New York: Farrar, Strauss and Giroux, 2004. P. 200201.




3


Pitman J. On Blondes. From Aphrodite to Madonna: Why Blondes Have More Fun. London: Bloomsbury, 2003. P.227.




4


CoiffureGate: The High Cost of Hollandes Haircut// BBC News. www.bbc.co.uk/news/blogs-trending-36784083 (   24  2016).




5


Mahawatte R. Hair and Fashioned Femininity in Two Nineteenth-Century Novels// Biddle-Perry and Cheang (eds). Hair. . 193203; Ofek G. Representations of Hair in Victorian Literature and Culture. Farnham: Ashgate, 2009.




6


Bronte C. Jane Eyre (1847). London: Penguin, 2012. P.353. (   :  .   [. . .]. .: , 1988.)




7


., : Velody R. Hair-Dressing in Desperate Housewives: Narration, Characterization and the Pleasures of Reading Hair// Biddle-Perry and Cheang (eds). Hair. p.215227.




8


Sullivan E., Wear A. Materiality, Nature and the Body// Richardson C., Hamling T., Gaimster D.R.M. (eds) The Routledge Handbook of Material Culture in Early Modern Europe. London: Routledge, 2017. P. 14157, esp. .144.




9


Ibid. p. 149150.




10


   .: Dawson M.S. First Impressions: Newspaper Advertisements and Early Modern English Body Imaging// Journal of British Studies. 2011. Vol.50. P.277306, esp. .295296.




11


.: Taavitsainen I. Characters and English Almanac Literature: Genre Development and Intertextuality// Sell R.D., Verdonk P.(eds) Literature and the New Interdisciplinarity: Poetics, Linguistics, History. Amsterdam; Atlanta: Rodopi, 1994. P. 168169.




12


Copland R. The shepardes kalender. London, 1570. sig. [Lvi verso].




13


The English Fortune-Teller. London, 16709.




14


To her Brown Beard. [London], 167096.




15


., : de Bois-Regard N.A. Orthop?dia: Or the Art of Correcting and Preventing Deformities in Children. 2vols. London, 1743. Vol.II. p. 1117.




16


Crosbys royal fortune-telling almanack; or, Ladies universal pocket-book, for the year 1796. London [1795]. P.130.




17


Pearl S.About Faces: Physiognomy in Nineteenth-Century Britain. Cambridge, MA: Harvard UniversityPress, 2010.




18


Guillemeau J. Child-birth or, The happy deliuerie of women. London, 1612. sig. L1r, p. 3.




19


[Anon.] In Holborn over against Fetter-lane, at the sign of the last, liveth a physitian. London, 1680.




20


Torriano G. The second alphabet consisting of proverbial phrases. London, 1662. P.211.




21


[Anon.] A new ballad of an amorous coachman. [London], 1690.




22


Bullied Anorexic is a Cut Above// Metro. 2011. December6. P.9.




23


     . ., : Harriet Harman Says Ginger Rodent Comment Was Wrong// BBC News. www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-scotland-politics-11658228 (   29  2017).




24


Jones N. Should Ginger-Bashing Be Considered a Hate Crime?// New Statesman. 2013. January10. www.newstatesman.com/nelson-jones/2013/01/should-ginger-bashing-be-considered-hate-crime (   29  2017).




25


      Ginger Parrot. gingerparrot.co.uk (   29  2017).




26


. : Swami V., Barrett S.British Mens Hair Color Preferences: An Assessment of Courtship Solicitation and Stimulus Ratings// Scandinavian Journal of Psychology. 2011. Vol.52. Is. 6. P.595.




27


Ibid.




28


Pitman. On Blondes. p. 155201.




29


  (Platinum Blonde, 1931);   (Blonde Crazy, 1931);   (Blonde Venus, 1932);   (The Blonde Captive, 1932);    (Blondie of the Follies, 1932);   (Blond Bombshell, 1933);    (Dont Bet on Blondes, 1935); - (Blond Cheat, 1938);  (Blondie, 1938);   (Strawberry Blonde, 1941);    (My Favourite Blonde, 1942);     (Andy Hardys Blonde Trouble, 1944);   (Blonde Fever, 1944);   (Incendiary Blonde, 1945);    (Blondies Big Moment, 1947);      (The Beautiful Blonde from Bashful Bend, 1949);    (Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, 1953).          ,     .       :     (Three Blondes in His Life, 1961);   (A Blonde in Love, 1965);    (The Loves of a Blonde, 1965); Ӡ   (Blondes Have More Guns, 1995);   - (The Last of the Blonde Bombshells, 2000);   (Legally Blonde, 2001);   (Totally Blonde, 2001);   (Blonde Ambition, 2007);   (Blonde and Blonder, 2007);   (Private Valentine: Blonde and Dangerous, 2008).




30


Jones G. Blonde and Blue-Eyed? Globalizing Beauty, c.1945 c.1980// Economic History Review. 2008. Vol.61. P. 125154.




31


Pitman. On Blondes. . 4.




32


       , ,             . .: Swami and Barrett, British Mens Hair Color Preferences; Gue?guen N. Hair Color and Courtship: Blond Women Received More Courtship Solicitations and Redhead Men Received More Refusals// Psychological Studies. 2012. Vol.57. P. 369375.




33


The Diaries of Lady Anne Clifford/ d. D.J.H. Clifford. Stroud: Alan Sutton, 1990. P.56.




34


Phillips C. Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present. London: Thames and Hudson, 1996. P.81.




35


London Gazette. 4September 17018 September 1701.     XVIII .: Holm .Sentimental Cuts: Eighteenth-Century Mourning Jewelry with Hair// Eighteenth-Century Studies. 2004. Vol.38. P. 139143.




36


   ,      1714 1717: Pope A. The Rape of the Lock// Martin Price (ed.). The Restoration and the Eighteenth Century. The Oxford Anthology of Literature. Oxford: Oxford UniversityPress, 1973. P. 321344 (  . 321, 337).




37


   :  . . .:  , 1988.




38


Digby K. Letter Book 16331635. Smith College, Rare Book Room Cage, MS 134, p.4041.     ,        .




39


      .: Sheumaker H. This Lock You See: Nineteenth-Century Hair Work as the Commodified Self// Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 1997. Vol.1. P. 421445. ( : . ߠ  ,  ,  :   XIX   //  : , , . 2008. 7. .95121); Rahm V.L. Human Hair Ornaments// Minnesota History. 1974. Vol.44. P.7074; Pointon M. Brilliant Effects: A Cultural History of Gem Stones and Jewellery. New Haven; London: published for The Paul Mellon Centre for Studies in British Art by Yale UniversityPress, 2009. P. 293311.




40


March R. The Page Affair: Lady Caroline Lambs Literary Cross-Dressing. www.sjsu.edu/faculty/douglass/caro/PageAffair.pdf (   22  2017).




41


Gaskell E. North and South. London: Penguin, 2012. P.313.




42


Cit. ex: Gere C., Rudge J. Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria: A Mirror to the World. London: British Museum Press, 2010. P.73.




43


Ibid. p. 167, 170. Fig. 124.




44


  : Beethoven, RPS MS 406; Bronte?, Egerton MS 3268 B; Dickens, RP 8738/3; Nelson, Add MS 56226; Goethe, Zweig MS 155; Hanoverians, Add MS 88883/4/8; Boli?var, Add MS 89075/12/1.




45


   ,            119500. .: Most Expensive Lock of Hair// Time. content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1917097_ 1917096_1917086,00.html (   18  2017).




46


Ofek. Representations of Hair. . 43.        .: Gere and Rudoe. Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria. p. 164170.




47


Ofek. Representations of Hair. . 44.




48


General Advertiser (1744). 1748. July 5.




49


Reads Weekly Journal or British Gazetteer. 23 September 1738.




50


Hair// London Chronicle or Universal Evening Post. 24 March 177426 March 1774.




51


., : Pepys. VI. . 210.




52


Spufford M. The Great Reclothing of Rural England: Petty Chapmen and their Wares in the Seventeenth Century. London: Hambledon Press, 1984. P. 5051.




53


Country News Gloucester, Nov. 25// Whitehall Evening Post or London Intelligencer. 28 November 174930 November 1749.




54


St. Jamess Evening Post. 10 March 171613 March 1716.




55


   XVIII       :     ,           . (. .)




56


Daily Courant. 1715. October5.     : OfficerL.H., Williamson S.H. Five Ways to Compute the Relative Value of a UK Pound Amount, 1270 to Present// MeasuringWorth. 2017. www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/ (   12  2017).




57


Daily Post. 1725. December 24.




58


Weekly Journal or British Gazetteer. 1729. August 9.




59


Zdatny S.(ed.) Hairstyles and Fashion: A Hairdressers History of Paris. Oxford: Berg, 1999. P. 1516, 160.    : www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/ (   12  2017).




60


The Hairdressers Journal, devoted to the Interests of the Profession. [London, 1863, 1864]. P. 4344.




61


Sitwell G. The Dew, It Lyes on the Wood// Osbert Sitwell (ed.) Two Generations. London: Macmillan, 1940. P.3. Front   ,    .




62


Attempted Theft of a Ladys Hair// Cincinnati Daily Gazette. 1879. October30. P.6 (    : San Francisco Bulletin. 1879. November5. P.[1]. A Theft of Beautiful Hair// Philadelphia Inquirer. 1889. December8. P.2.




63


The Times. 1870. January 20. P.7.




64


Cunnington .W., Cunnington P.Handbook of English Costume in the Nineteenth Century. 3rd edn. London: Faber, 1970. P. 480481, 510512.




65


      : Tarlo E. Entanglement: The Secret Lives of Hair. London: Oneworld Publications, 2016;    : Edwards E. Hair, Devotion and Trade in India// Biddle-Perry and Cheang (eds). Hair. p. 149166.




66


The Memoirs of Anne, Lady Halkett and Ann, Lady Fanshawe/ Ed. John Loftis. Oxford: Oxford UniversityPress, 1979. P.173.




67


 , .  : Fanshawe, Lady Ann (16251680), MS.7113/29.        ,     Cantharis vesicatoria,     .         XX.




68


Partridge J. The widowes treasure plentifully furnished with sundry precious and approoued secretes in phisicke and chirurgery for the health and pleasure of mankind. London, 1586, sig. Dvrv; Banister J. An antidotarie chyrurgicall containing great varietie and choice medicines. London, 1589. P. 166167.




69


Levens P.A right profitable booke for all disseases Called The pathway to health. London, 1582. P.2; Woolley H. The Accomplishd ladys delight. London, 1675. P.174.




70


W.M. The Queens closet opened incomparable secrets in physic, chyrurgery, preserving, and candying &c. London, 1655. P. 212214;  , .  : Boyle Family, MS.1340/digitized image 154.    ,        ,   ;    .




71


 , .  : English Recipe Book, MS.7391/digitized image 5; Elizabeth Okeover (and others), MS.3712/ digitized image17.          : MS.7391/digitized image 67 MS.3712/digitized image 105.     (Aspin R. Who Was Elizabeth Okeover?// Medical History. 2000. Vol.44. P. 531540),    MS.7391    ,     .         .    re: -,    retort, ࠖ ,   .




72


.: Smith V. Clean: A History of Personal Hygiene and Purity. Oxford: Oxford UniversityPress, 2007. P. 5153.




73


    .




74


Athenian Gazette or Casuistical Mercury. 1693. May 16.




75


    .  5  .  .: Vincent S.The Anatomy of Fashion: Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today. Oxford: Berg, 2003. P. 1517, 3133.




76


.: Corbyn & Co., chemists and druggists, London, Manufacturing recipe books, 17481851: London, Wellcome Library, MS 54465450.




77


 , . Med. Ephemera EPH160B, Hair care ephemera, Box9, Bears Grease (Thomas Cross, Holborn, 1770).




78


Ross A. A treatise on bears grease. London, 1795; Beasley H. The Druggists General Receipt Book. London: John Churchill, 1850. P. 212225.




79


The Star Patent Medicine Stores. Oxford, [c.1890]. . 11.  , : John Johnson Collection of Printed Ephemera, Patent Medicines 14 (62)// The John Johnson Collection: An Archive of Printed Ephemera.




80


          Pharmaceutical Formulas,      1898 (     1919). Ƞ 10?  1934  ,         (. 9).




81


Jones G. Blonde and Blue-eyed? Globalizing Beauty, c.1945c.1980// Economic History Review. 2008. Vol.61. P.128; EH. p. 253, 349, 382.




82


Wrecker J.J. Cosmeticks, or, the beautifying part of physic. London, 1660. P.74.




83


Jeamson T. Artificiall embellishments, or Arts best directions how to preserve beauty or procure it. Oxford, 1665. P.108.




84


 , .  : Bridget Hyde (1733), MS.2990/digitized image 20; Boyle Family, MS.1340/digitized image 109.




85


Stevens Cox, s.v. curling irons and variations; EH. p. 335, 366.




86


Jeamson. Artificiall embellishments. . 110.




87


Gronow R.H. Captain Gronows Recollections and Anecdotes of the Camp, the Court, and the Clubs, At the Close of the last War with France. London: Smith, Elder and Co., 1864. P. 151152.




88


Π  .: EH. p. 303305.




89


Ritchie D. A Treatise on the Hair. London, 1770. P. 2627; Moore W. The art of hair-dressing. Bath, [1780]. P. 1819.




90


Foan. p. 295296.




91


Hughes S.Could Your Hair Dye Kill You// The Guardian. 2011. November 28. www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/nov/28/could-hair-dye-kill-you (   31 2017).




92


Platter F. Platerus golden practice of physick fully and plainly disovering. London, 1664. P. 539, 540.




93


Pu?cklers Progress: The Adventures of Prince Pu?ckler-Muskau in England, Wales and Ireland as Told in Letters to his Former Wife, 18269/ Transl. Flora Brennan. London: Collins, 1987. P.177.




94


Durbin G. Wig, Hairdressing and Shaving Bygones. Oxford: Shire, 1984. P.12; White.L. American Artifacts of Personal Adornment 16801820: A Guide to Identification and Interpretation. Lanham, MD: Altamira Press, 2005. P. 104110.  .: EH, s.v. comb.




95


Erondell P.The French garden: for English ladyes and gentlewomen to walke in. London, 1605. sig. E1v.




96


Spufford M. The Great Reclothing of Rural England: Petty Chapmen and their Wares in the Seventeenth Century. London: Hambledon Press, 1984. P. 9495, 153, 188189, 204205.




97


Durbin, Wig, Hairdressing and Shaving. . 27. Π  : Beaujot A. Victorian Fashion Accessories. London: Berg, 2012. P. 139177.




98


.: Ofek G. Representations of Hair in Victorian Literature and Culture. Farnham: Ashgate, 2009, esp. .3435, 4041.




99


Durbin, Wig, Hairdressing and Shaving. . 27.




100


., : Balmanno Squire, Surgeon to the British Hospital for Diseases of the Skin. Superfluous Hair and the Means of Removing It. London: J.A. Churchill, 1893. P.52.




101


Vidal. p. 3233.




102


The Diary of John Evelyn/ d. E.S. de Beer. 6vols. Oxford: Oxford UniversityPress, 1955. Vol.III. . 87 (13 August 1653).




103


Liebault J. Trois Livres de lembellissment et de lornement du corps humain, 1632 (1st edn, 1582). Cit. ex: Vigarello G. Concepts of Cleanliness: Changing Attitudes in France since the Middle Ages. Cambridge: Cambridge UniversityPress, 1988. P.83.




104


Bullein W. The Government of Health (1558). Cit. ex: Smith. Clean. . 209.




105


Π    .: Smith. Clean. p. 1724.  ,       ,          (Hale C.M., PolderJ.A. ABCs of Safe and Healthy Child Care: A Handbook for Child Care Providers. US Public Health Service, 1996. P.91).




106


., : Sennert D. The Art of chirurgery explained in six parts. London, 1663. P.2626; Jeamson. Artificiall embellishments. . 123.




107


Sennert. Art of chirurgery. . 2626.




108


EH. p. 102103.




109


Freeling A. (ed.) Gracefulness: Being a Few Words Upon Form and Features. London: Routledge, [1845]. P.204.




110


  ,        ,               XIX: Vigarello. Concepts of Cleanliness. . 174.




111


Stevens Cox, s.v. shampoo.




112


Pharmaceutical Formulas. Vol.2. 11th edn. London: Chemist and Druggist, 1956. P.804.




113


Π,   : The Times. 1897. July 22. . 7; 1897. July 30. . 9; 1897. August 9. . 10; 1897. August 12. . 10; 1897. September 16. .2; 1898. September 3. . 10. Π    : The Times. 1909. October 22. . 21; 1910. October 28. . 4; 1909. November2. . 19; 1909. February 5. . 10. Π  : The Times. 1910. May 31. . 7.




114


The Times. 1898. September 3. . 10.




115


Π,   : The Times. 1909. July 16. . 4; 1909. August 25. . 2; 1909. September 25. . 2; 1909. September 29. . 2; 1909. October 2. .3; 1909. October 6. . 14; 1910. February 5. . 10; 1910. March 25. . 4.




116


The Times. 1910. February 5. . 10; Cox C. Good Hair Days: A History of British Hairstyling. London: Quartet Books, 1999. P.35.




117


 , . Med. Ephemera EPH154, Hair care ephemera, Box 1.




118


.: Skoski J.R. Public Baths and Washhouses in Victorian Britain, 18421914 (PhDthesis). Indiana University, Bloomington, 2000.




119


Vidal. p. 7, 27, 54.




120


Jones. Globalizing Beauty. . 138.




121


Kemsley W.F.F., Ginsberg D. Expenditure on Hairdressing, Cosmetics and Toilet Necessities. Cit. ex: Smith. Clean. . 338.




122


Jones. Globalizing Beauty. . 134 (), 135.




123


Pepys. III. . 213. ( : one that could dress a head well.         , .   XVIIIXIX       ,  .. .)




124


Pepys. III. . 213 (  ); V. . 72; VIII. . 35 IX. . 424 (  ); VIII. . 280 IX. . 201 (  ); E.g. III. . 96; VI. . 21 VIII. . 531 (  ); IX. . 175 (     ).




125


Pepys. III. . 213; The Letters and Journals of Lady Mary Coke/ d. J.A.Home. 4vols. 188996. (Repr. Bath: Kingsmead Reprints, 1970.) Vol.II. . 303.




126


Aspinall-Oglander C. Admirals Widow: Being the Life and Letters of the Hon. Mrs. Edward Boscawen from 1761 to 1805. London: Hogarth Press, 1942. P.126. 20 December 1787.




127


Beeton I. The Book of Household Management. London: S.O.Beeton, 1861; facsimile repr. Jonathan Cape, 1977. P. 980, 978.




128


MacDonald J. Memoirs of an Eighteenth-Century Footman: John MacDonalds Travels (17451779)/ d. John Beresford. London: Routledge, 1927.




129


Morning Herald and Daily Advertiser. 1781. January 4.




130


Ibid. 1783. June 7.




131


Ibid. 1782. June 11; Daily Advertiser. 1778. June 22.




132


SP 14/107 fol. 121, March (?) 1619.




133


Pepys. IX. . 454.




134


Campbell R. The London tradesman. Being a compendious view of all the trades. London, 1747. P. 209210.




135


Corson R. Fashions in Hair: The First Five Thousand Years. London: Peter Owen, 1971. P.360; Hart J. An address to the public, on the subject of the starch and hair-powder manufacturies. London, [1795]. P.61.    .   .: Barrell J. The Spirit of Despotism: Invasions of Privacy in the 1790s. Oxford: Oxford UniversityPress, 2006. P.165, n. 72.




136


Court and Private Life in the Time of Queen Charlotte: Being the Journals of Mrs Papendiek, Assistant Keeper of the Wardrobe and Reader to Her Majesty/ d. Mrs Vernon Delves Broughton. 2vols. London: Richard Bentley and Son, 1887. Vol.II. P.5. ..         1784  1809.  ,     :     ;  ,    ,    : The Court Journals and Letters of Frances Burney. Vol.1/ Ed. Peter Sabor. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 2011. P.25. No. 116. P.104.




137


    : Officer L.H., Williamson S.H.Five Ways to Compute the Relative Value of a UK Pound Amount, 1270 to Present// MeasuringWorth. 2017. www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/ (   12  2017).




138


Journals of Mrs Papendiek. II. . 49.




139


Ibid. I. . 173; I. . 222; I. .185; I. . 199; I. . 173; I. . 222; I. . 237; I. . 292; II. .171.        ,   ,  .: Court Journals of Frances Burney. . 17, n. 75.




140


Journals of Mrs Papendiek. II. . 111; II. . 142.




141


Woodforde X. . 27.




142


Court Journals of Frances Burney. . 96, 104 with n. 356.




143


The Memoirs of Richard Cumberland/ d. Richard Dircks. 2vols in 1. New York: AMS Press, 2002. Vol.II. P.14.




144


Beaton C. The Glass of Fashion. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson, 1954. P. 1314.




145


  2016: Hair and Beauty Industry Statistics// National Hairdressers Federation. www.nhf.info/about-the-nhf/hair-and-beauty-industry-statistics/ (   18  2016).




146


How Many Famous Female Hairdressers Can you Name?// BBC News. bbc.co.uk/news/business-38267758 (   11  2016).




147


Pelling M. The Common Lot: Sickness, Medical Occupations and the Urban Poor in Early Modern England. London: Longman, 1998. P.208; Evenden D. Gender Difference in the Licensing and Practice of Female and Male Surgeons in Early Modern England// Medical History. 1998. No. 42. P. 194216.




148


    : Officer L.H., Williamson S.H.Five Ways to Compute the Relative Value of a UK Pound Amount, 1270 to Present// MeasuringWorth. 2017. www.measuringworth.com/ukcompare/ (   13  2017).




149


Stuart Royal Proclamations.Vol. II. Royal Proclamations of King Charles I 16251646/ d. James Larkin. Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1983. P.88.




150


Pepys. VII. . 278 ( ⠫); VIII. . 133 (  ⠫); IV. . 312 ( ); VIII. . 234 ( ); I. . 200 (  ).




151


Pepys. I. . 298.




152


SP 29/101 fol. 16.




153


    .  3.  .: Proctor R.W.The Barbers Shop. Manchester; London, 1883. P. 1356; Theologos. Shaving: A Breach of the Sabbath. London, 1860; Andrews W. At the Sign of the Barbers Pole: Studies in Hirsute History. 1904; repr. [n.p.]: Dodo Press, [n.d.]. P. 1517.




154


Foan. . 507.




155


Proctor. The Barbers Shop. p. 5657.




156


 1600    : Pelling M. Appearance and Reality: Barber-surgeons, the Body and Disease// A.L.Beier, R. Finlay (eds). London 15001700: The Making of a Metropolis. London: Longman, 1986. P.94. Π  .: Maguire L. Petruccio and the Barbers Shop// Studies in Bibliography. 1998. Vol.51. P. 11819; Pelling. The Common Lot. p. 2223; Cox S.s.v. barber music.




157


Pepys. I. . 90; V. . 352; IV. . 237.




158


Pepys. III. . 233; III. . 201.




159


Woodforde. XI. . 145.




160


Evenden. Gender Difference in the Licensing and Practice of Female and Male Surgeons. p. 196197, 201.  .: Willen D. Guildswomen in the City of York, 15601700// The Historian. 1984. Vol.43. P.217.




161


Murray I. The London Barbers// Ian Burn (ed.). The Company of Barbers and Surgeons. London: Ferrand Press, 2000. P.77.




162


Smith J.T.Ancient Topography of London. London: John Thomas Smith, 1815. P.38.




163


DM. 1936. October 7. . 16; 1911. September 22. . 11; 1951. July 2. . 3.




164


Pepys. I. . 219.


