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Tastemakers.   
   ,   25  -  LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton,       .      ,       .  ,       :     ,   ,   .

     ,    ,       ,   ,      .





 

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   HarperCollins Publishers  Andrew Nurnberg Associates International Ltd. c/o Andrew Nurnberg Literary Agency

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Copyright 2019 by Pauline Brown. Published by arrangement with HarperBusiness, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers.

   , , .  ,   , 2022


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  2015    ,               :   ,      .      LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton  .   ,       ,       .  ,    .    ,    , ,  .  ,          .    ,     .   ,   .  :    !     ,  :   :    ?   ,         .

        ,        :    ,     .          ,      :        -   .        .         Este Lauder Companies,    Avon Products,        The Carlyle Group. ,     ,  ,               ,  Bain & Company,           .

        .   ,   ,     ,         ,  ,   .  ,             .

,   ,  ࠖ                ;      . ࠖ    ,     . ,  ,    ,       .

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     ,       ,       .     ,    ,  ,     ,     .      ,             .     ,     (  )  ,   ,    .     ( ),     ,   ,             .    ,  , ,         .  ,   ,   ,     .    ,   .

        ,    ,       .    ,  ,                ,     .     蠖  ,              .   ࠖ   .          ,   : ,    ,     ,   ,     .       ,     - ,  ,      ,  堖       .

         (1976).      :  ,     Panasonic Take-N-Tape ().       , ,        ,      .        ;    ꠖ     .  , 1976-,    ,    -  -  .

   ,   Panasonic Take-N-Tape:      ,   , ,      ,  -.            didas.        ,      .         /F;      ,   .        : ,  ,    .        ,               .         .     .

     ,    :          Panasonic.      ,       Take-N-Tape      .   ,       ,         .        .

         (     -).           ,           .   Take-N-Tape       :    , ,  ,         [1 - Future Craft, Panasonic. https://www.panasonic.com/global/corporate/technology-design/our-design.html (https://www.panasonic.com/global/corporate/technology-design/our-design.html).].

      ,        , ,  .       -,    -,         .  -   ,          -,      .        ,     ,     .

          ,  堖 Sasson,        ,        --.         ,       .   ,   34     ,           (    ).      Vidal Sassoon: ,         ,   ,       .      : ,    ,  .  ,        -   - ,   ,      .

     ,     LeSportsac.            ,         .   LeSportsac      ,         .         :   -,   ,     ,   .   ,         .

 1984               :    ,        .        ,   ,      ,        :   , ,    .  ,   .  ,       . ,         L. L. Bean.           ,        ,            .

       ⠫,    :               ( , Pantone PMS349);      Vox clamantis in deserto,        ;  1769     .            -:   ,       ,    .    ,          ,              .        ,     .

          ,    -,    . ,    ,   ,        .    ,         .                :          .      ,   .

  ,    .                .     ࠖ     :  ,     ,       .             ,   .

      ,   堖 ,          ,     ,  -   :   .       ,      ,     , ⠖       .         ,      .

 1997,     ,   ,            .  ,    , ,  ,        ,    . ,    .  ,     ,         -  -.           , ,    (   Manolo Blahnik 500).    ,     ,   ,   .    ,      .

             蠖    LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton  .     70              .          ,    -  ,     ;        .     ,         ,           ,    -.  ,         ,     ,    ,    .

    ,     ,       LVMH,        ,      .  ,      ,          . ,   ,             ,     .




 I.   





 1.  


    LVMH,   ,       ,         Ruinart     Bulgari.            ,      ,   .         ,   ,      . , ,                   . ,      .  ,  LVMH,  :     iPhone.       ,           ? ,  . ,  - ,  .     ,         Dom Perignon[2 - CNBC Transcript: LVMH Chairman & CEO Bernard Arnault Speaks with CNBCs Squawk on the Street Today, CNBC, 6 2014. https://www.cnbc.com/2014/05/06/cnbc-transcript-lvmh-chairman-ceo-bernard-arnault-speaks-with-cnbcs-squawk-on-the-street-today.html (https://www.cnbc.com/2014/05/06/cnbc-transcript-lvmh-chairman-ceo-bernard-arnault-speaks-with-cnbcs-squawk-on-the-street-today.html).].

 ,  ,      .         ,     .       ,     ,       .                 : ࠖ  ,  , ,            .      ,      :    ,    ,       .

,    ,             ,     .         ;    ,   ,   : , ,  (),  ()   ( ).       ,              ,  ,   .         ,        .

          堖    ,            ,  ,     .             .  , ,              .         ,   [3 -   堖 aesthetic intelligence, AI,  the otherAI. . .].

,      ,      ,    .  1995,       ,    ࠖ        .         -,          (  ),            .    ,   ,       ,       , , ;             ,           .

 - ,            .        堖 :            .           ,    .  ,           .    ,            .

      : ,    ,      .   -         ,     :      ,  ,   .          .

   [4 -  (Chief Executive Officer,   . .   ) ,   ,    . . .]  Google  , ,    ,        ,    ,    ,    ,     .        ,        ,    , ,  ,         ,         .                   .


 :    

      ,         ,      .  ,   85%         ,     .              ,          15% .

              ࠖ         , ,   ,        .         ,    . ,     , , ,          ,   -  ,   ,   .                ,    ,        .               .

  ,    ,   .  , Louis Vuitton,        ,      ,   , ,       .       ,   .     ?         .            .                  :        .   ,      -  ,         .

,    ,    XIX,         (),   ( )   ()   ,    ,         ( .3 (#litres_trial_promo)).

 XXI:           ,        .  Louis Vuitton            :        ,    ,        Volez, Voguez, Voyagez[5 - Caroline Halleman. New Louis Vuitton Exhibit Shows Off the Glamorous History of the Brand, Town & Country, 27 2017. https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/a13107658/new-louis-vuitton-exhibit/ (https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/a13107658/new-louis-vuitton-exhibit/).],     []  1854   .  Louis Vuitton  ,    ,         .

  - , Apple, Walt Disney Company, Adidas  Starbucks       蠫        ,      .         .

,         ,   :  Apple      Samsung; Airbnb, Marriott  Craigslist      .    .    ,        1000  iPhone   1000               Tesla.    Airbnb            ,       ,    -,            .       Airbnb    :      ,        .       .       ,      ,       .

    ,            :      ,           .       , , ,        . ,    ,    ,      堖   .                ,      (     ),  ,    ,            (   ).

,        (      ),     ,      .         堖 Veuve Clicquot.  - -,    XIX,   -           .  1798     ,      Maison Clicquot. Ƞ,        .  1805,     ,   ,        .     .

      ,     ,   ,    ,  ,                 .        .      堖              .  -    1772            .

        ;   ,      .  ,        ,           .  ,           ,       .               ,         .          :    .

        :  ,                  ,       .   ,  ,     [6 - Jacoba Urist. Is Good Taste Teachable? NewYork Times, 4 2017. https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/04/style/design-good-taste.html (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/04/style/design-good-taste.html).]. ,   ,       .       ;          .   ,     ,      .       Le Creuset,           ,         .    ࠖ         ,    .         ,     .

     ,    :      ,     .      ,      . ,       , , ,   ,     ,     .       :      .     Birkin  Hermes        [7 - Wei Gu, Dean Napolitano. Herm?s Birkin Bagged for Record Price at Christies Hong Kong Auction, Wall Street Journal, 2 2015. https://www.wsj.com/articles/hermes-birkin-bagged-for-record-price-at-christies-hong-kong-auction-1433149955 (https://www.wsj.com/articles/hermes-birkin-bagged-for-record-price-at-christies-hong-kong-auction-1433149955).].

              Este Lauder Companies.         Bain & Company , ,     .  Bain                 .       ,  ,      Este Lauder Companies,  ,       .   , ,       ,    Bain.

,     ,            (,  ,  )    .       :     ,   ,         .       ,   .  ,       ,   ,    ,     ,     ,       .     ,        .   ,              -,        ,      ,   ,     ,    .

,    -   ,     ,    .  ,      .          ,  ,      ,    ,       .   Bain          ,    .   ,    ,        ,        -,   ,    .            ,     , ,    , ,        - ;        ,   .       ,   ?      ,    , ,  ,         -.

 Bain       (   㠖    ,    -)   :   , ,           ,        .     ,              ,         .    Este Lauder,         ,         .        :    ,    ,       ,    .        .

  Aveda     ,      Este Lauder Companies.  1960-  ,   ,         .    1941;     ,    .  17     ,      -         .  1970-     ,          ,      .      ,     ,        ,     .

      ,      .         ,      .     :       ,     ,    ,      ,   蠖      ,     . Ӡ       ,         .             .    Aveda    ,              .        ,        ,       ,    ,    .              .

    ,        ,   ,      .          Pantene. ,  Procter & Gamble,          .       ,   ,         .            ;         ,   ,   .

         ,                   .        :           ,     .  , , ,       ,    ,   :           ,    ,      .     : 1978    Aveda.

     Aveda  ,      ,  ,  ,  1978   .         ,      .              Aveda,      : ,    ,       ,      ,         ,  -,  ⠫ .

   ,        .   ,      Aveda ( ,   ,  ,           ,   )           (   ,        ;     ).       ⠖               Aveda.

     Jo Malone London        ,           .  1999,   ,       .  Este Lauder,     ,   :   White Linen, Pleasures Beautiful  蠖       ,        .      ,          ;       , Nars Cosmetics, Bobbi Brown Laura Mercier.

 Jo Malone  1994,         :          Bergdorf Goodman .       ,              .       ,   ,      .  ,     Jo Malone      ,         ,            :      ,      ( ,  ,  ,  );      ,    ;          -  .                  .

        ,   :          .  ,     ,  .            -[8 - Perfumer Jo Malone on Her Superhuman Sense of Smell, Good Morning Britain, 17 2017. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEHw144GyzQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v%3dQEHw144GyzQ).],      .            ,    ,   Jo Malone   ,      .     Aveda,   ,    ,         堖   ,      . :    ,             .     ,      ,          .              :        .

  ,   The Carlyle Group,         Philosophy,      .     ,    Philosophy  ,     ,          ,   ,       ,   , .     ,      , , .  ,     ,  ,              .         ,     堖    : Grace (), Purity (), Renewed Hope ( ).     ,   ,   ,             .

    ,         Carlyle,      .        ,  ,          ,  ,    ,    .    Carlyle          ,         -    ,    .         ,  堖      .     ,      .

        .      ,    ,  ,     .  ,   -      ,           :      ?




  .


   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/pauline-brown/esteticheskiy-intellekt-kak-ego-razvivat-i-ispolzovat-v-bizn/)  .

      Visa, MasterCard, Maestro,    ,   ,     ,  PayPal, WebMoney, ., QIWI ,       .



notes








1


Future Craft, Panasonic. https://www.panasonic.com/global/corporate/technology-design/our-design.html (https://www.panasonic.com/global/corporate/technology-design/our-design.html).




2


CNBC Transcript: LVMH Chairman & CEO Bernard Arnault Speaks with CNBCs Squawk on the Street Today, CNBC, 6 2014. https://www.cnbc.com/2014/05/06/cnbc-transcript-lvmh-chairman-ceo-bernard-arnault-speaks-with-cnbcs-squawk-on-the-street-today.html (https://www.cnbc.com/2014/05/06/cnbc-transcript-lvmh-chairman-ceo-bernard-arnault-speaks-with-cnbcs-squawk-on-the-street-today.html).




3


  堖 aesthetic intelligence, AI,  the otherAI. . .




4


 (Chief Executive Officer,   . .   ) ,   ,    . . .




5


Caroline Halleman. New Louis Vuitton Exhibit Shows Off the Glamorous History of the Brand, Town & Country, 27 2017. https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/a13107658/new-louis-vuitton-exhibit/ (https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/fashion-trends/a13107658/new-louis-vuitton-exhibit/).




6


Jacoba Urist. Is Good Taste Teachable? NewYork Times, 4 2017. https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/04/style/design-good-taste.html (https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/04/style/design-good-taste.html).




7


Wei Gu, Dean Napolitano. Herm?s Birkin Bagged for Record Price at Christies Hong Kong Auction, Wall Street Journal, 2 2015. https://www.wsj.com/articles/hermes-birkin-bagged-for-record-price-at-christies-hong-kong-auction-1433149955 (https://www.wsj.com/articles/hermes-birkin-bagged-for-record-price-at-christies-hong-kong-auction-1433149955).




8


Perfumer Jo Malone on Her Superhuman Sense of Smell, Good Morning Britain, 17 2017. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QEHw144GyzQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v%3dQEHw144GyzQ).


