 .  ,    
 


   
      ?      ?      ?        ,           ,    .       ,       :  ,  ,  ,  ,    .      ,      ,   ,  ,    .    ,       XX ,     ,  .. .  , ,             . , . , .    .                 ,        1980  ,    , ,          .

   PhD,     (-).





 

   ,   





 


       ?   .                  ( , -),       Fashion Projects.     Fashion Theory, Fashion Practice The Journal of Design History,       .


 , 







 


      ,            .  ,             ,       .  ,              .      ,     :  Β  ,   . ߠ      -,    ,  ,            ,            ,          .

   ,        . Ƞ       ,      ,       Imitatio Christi (Π )      .                 .  ,      ,   ,        ,  .          ,     -,    ,   ,    ,   ,       ,    .

ߠ                :  ,  ,          .         ,          ,   ,          .

              Dress Cultures    .

 2009 2014          -      .       ,            Atopos.  ,  4   Journal of Design History   Deconstruction Fashion: Carnival and the Grotesque ( :  ),  6,  ,     Bernhard Willhelm and Jutta Kraus,       (, ).   5   Fitting SourcesTailoring methods: ACase-study of Martin Margiela and the Temporalities of Fashion (  :        )   Research Methods, Sites and Practice,     .

ߠ     ,    ,            . Ƞ,     ,     ,    , ,     .







        .

 .       [1 - Bakhtin 1984: 322323 ( .       . .:  , 1990. C. 357).]

 1930?             . Ƞ   .   ,   ,           ,      蠫  .          (       Rabelais and His World...)             ,   ,      .      ,        , ,     ,     ⠫      [2 - Ibid.: 320 ( : 354355).].

           ,   ,       ,     ,    ,           .      ,    []         [3 - Ibid.: 322323 ( : 357).].

   ,    (   )  ,   ,        ,    ,  1980?       .  1980?   ,      ,        ,     XXI[4 -           .        1930? -  .].  ࠖ,    1980?    ,       ,      .    1980?     ,     XX   ?      -,           ?

ߠ,   ,     ,  :             .               ,          , ,    ,   -  [5 - Foucault 1978: 139 ( .  ).]. ߠ ,     ,      ,   .    ,      ,  ,       ,    1980?,     .

       ,          ,         ,   ,          . ߠ,   ,        XXXXI,             ,  ,    .        .      ,    1980?  1990?,    ,    .       ,    ,    .  1980?  ,  ,     ;      -       .     ,     ,     - .        ,      ,    [6 - Sontag 1988: 114 ( .  ).].      ,          [7 -             (Harden 2012)   ,   .    (Treichler 1999).]. ,     . .,     .         ,  ,     ,  ,      ,     . Ѡ ,          ,     . Ѡ,    ,        ,   -,   ,  ,    ,           [8 - Ibid.].

          ,  , ,      ,       .      ,          ,      ,     ,  -  . ,   ,    ,   19801990?: ,  ,         .            .          ,       .       ,            XX  . Ƞ    , ,      (  Comme des Gar?ons)  .

 , ,     ,                  . 1980?,    ,    ,     .  .    ,             .  ,       ,       .       :



 <>    .    ,      ,  []  ,    ,        ,   [9 - Ibid.: 3.].


    ,  ,   ,         .    ,            ,        [10 -  ,       ,  , ,      . ,             ,          .].

       , ,        ,    ,    :    ,       .  ,   ,      ,     ,   ,    ,  , ,  /  . ߠ      ,     ,       ,       [11 -       [/]     .           ,      蠖    ,     .      XX .: Foster 1996; Buchloh 2001.].

,   ,    ,      .  ,           ,         .        1960?,         ,   -[12 -   , -    ,   1990? NEA (    )     ࠖ ,  ,    .    ,       ,        (Wark 2006).          ,         (Nead 1992). Π -     -  (Chang 2003).].  ,       ,      ,      , ,  ,    ,    ,   [13 - .: Goldberg 2001. : Carlson 1996; Schechner 1998; McKenzie 2004.].

       ,   ,    ,      ,            ,     ,  ,        .   ,      ,      ,           .        ,  ,    .   ,          ,     .     , ,         ,        ,           ,    [14 - Du Gay et al. 2013: 68.].  ,  ,      ,     - ,   ,        XX  XXI.  ,    ,  ,         ,   ,     .

Π,     -   ,    .                 ,          ,      .        堖         ; , ,     ,   [15 - Stam 1989: 122.].

        ,     XX:    Fashion at the Edge (  )   Fashion, Desire and Anxiety (,  )[16 - Evans 2003; Arnold 2001.].           ࠖ,    (  ,      )   ,        ,     ,         [17 -           1990?         (Evans 2003: 57).].  ,         ,    [18 -    ,     ,         ,         ,   -.     .               ,    / . .: Freud S.Repression  : Freud 19531974: 149;  .  Unconscious (, 1915),    .].   Π 軠      𻠖   ,  ,    ,            . ,            ,      ,   ,    ,      ,   [19 - Elias 1978. Π,     ,   ,  .  (Evans 2003: 314).].  ,           ,    ,    ,   ,    ,  ,  ⠫         ,    .

  ,         ,  [20 - Evans 2003: 3.],    ꠫        ,    ,  ,    ,       [21 -          (Kayser 1963).].   ,   ,   ,   ,     :           ,  ,  ,         ,  [22 - Evans 2003: 6.].

     ,            .         ,      蠖Bodies that Matter (,  ) Gender Trouble ( ),   ,            ,               [23 - Butler 2007; Butler 1993.].  , 



         ,     ;   ,  -     蠖,      ,    .  ,      , ,  ,     ,          ,     <>            ,    ,     ,           ,     ,        [24 - Butler 2004: 187188.].


          ,     .      ,         ,       .         ,     ,     ,       ,     ,        , , ,      .       ,         ,      ,    [25 - Ibid.: 197.].

         ,   ,         .   ,  򻠖    ,        ,  ,     ,      ,           , ,          ,     ,     .  , ,    ,     [26 - Butler 1993: 7.].      ,       ,      .  ,    ,      ,       ,     .   ,       蠫.    蠫,     ,     ,     ,  -    .    ,     ,   ,  ,   ,     .

    ,    ,      ,  .   XX.       ,    .  ,         ,    頖  ,    ,   ,     XX    [27 - Arnold 2001: 4862, 8094.  .         ,  ,     ().         .    ,  .    (Clover 1996).].   ,   ( )   1990?,     ,              [28 - Arnold 2001: 93.].  ,  , ,     ,      ;         ,    ,       .  ,         XX    [29 - Ibid.: 8995.].            : ,        1980?  2000?,         . ,    ,       ,        .

    ,     ,      ,       .       ,    .   1980?           ,     ,    , --.       ,       XX,    ,    1980?,            (power suit),       .

       --  ,        ,   ,     ,     XX              . ߠ  ,   ,  ,       ,  ,     ,    蠫  ,         XX.  ,      ,           ,       ,       ,   XX .

  1     1980?   .        /   ,    ,       ⠖    ,  The Womans Dress for Success Book (  .   )  .,   ,  Working Girl ( ).        ,     Bump and Lump Corporate Coding.   ,         蠫,   ,   .     (. )    , ,   ,        1980?         ,         .

  2  ,    ,           Body Meets Dress (ࠖ 1997),     Comme des Gar?ons,    Scenario,    1997        .      ,           ,       ,     ,     . Ѡ  ,   ,   ,       ,     ,   ,    .    -       ,   ;    ,            .

  3    , ,     .  ,       ,     .           .         ,      ,    .     ,    .      ,    .    ,    1980? 1990?,  ,      .     ,    蠖-,     Minty.           -             (   ),  ?           .  ,         3,   ,     ()   ,    ,      -       .        ,          1994 ,   .

 4 5   ,     ,    ,  ,        . ,                   .        ,   - (     ) ,-,     .    4  ,           1990? . ߠ     ,    .      ,       . ߠ   ,   ,   ,       ,   ,         .    XX     ࠖ 4 5      .  ,  ,        ,     ,     .  ,        1980?    ,    ,       .         ,         ,            .

   ,  4   ,        1990?   . ,    ,  ,           ,     , -,      .       ,          .         ⠖  ⠖      .       ,     .     ,    ,    ,      ,      ,    .  ,     ,     ,     ,    ,       .

  5     ,  1990?,   1999 ,    .   ,         ,           . , , ,      ,    .           ,   .        ,         .

 6    .              .         ,     ,     ,           .  ,      , ,  ࠖ   ,       .         ,      .       ,   ,      .       ,         ,       . ,    ,          , ,    ,        ,       .              , ,    ,    1980?     . Ƞ,   ,       ,    ,        ,       ,    .

     ,           .       -     . ,   ,       ,     .             ,        ,    -,     ,   Comme des Gar?ons.         ,  ,  ,               XX XXI.




     ,       ,  ,    ,    頖,          ,         .

-                    .      ,      ,    ,    ,  . ,       ࠖ 1997,  - ,                  (  )   .  , -  ,     ,           ,     1980? 1990?,  ,          .       ,  , ,  ,   ,  ,    .        ,   - -    .      , ,    ,   ,      .

      ,        ,     Fashion Theory,  ,         ,        [30 - .: Prown J.D.Mind in Matter: An Introduction to Material Culture Theory and Method : Prown 2001: 70 (      Winterthur Portfolio. 17. No. 1).  .: Prown 2000: 11.].  ,    頖    ,      (  ,    ), [31 - , ,  ,   , ,  /  ,        ,    .]    ,       ,     ,    .  1990?     ,        ,      ,       ,      .  ,     ,         ,          ,     ,      .  ,        .       ,     ;           ,    .

Π  ,  ,       ,        .        , ,      Film Art: An Introduction . [32 - Bordwell & Thompson 2004.].    ,     ,    ,  ,        (        ).

    , ,       ,,     .         ,   .      ,    ,     ,     ;         i-D   The Face. ,   ,          ,       19801990?[33 - ., : McRobbie 1998.].         ,  ,     Purple Visionaire.    Visionaire  1997  ,    ,    .  Comme des Gar?ons 1980?,      ,   ,   Six.        , , ,   ,     ,       [34 -   Visionaire Six  ;        -.].          ,    ,   Officiel Gap,         1990?,   ,       .  ,       򠖠, ,          [35 - Spindler 1993.]. Π     -   Details,          ,   ,      . (   Details    ,    .      Cond Nast       .      ,      ,       .)  ,     ,     ;   ,       ,          -    .        ,      .           ,  Butt Magazine (      ),  - - Hint Magazine    Dazed and Confused[36 - Haj-Najafi 2005; Shillingford 2007; de Potter 2001.].

       ,   .    ,     ,       / ,    .      ,      ,     , ,           ,     /    .  ,      ,     ( )   ,         ,        [37 - Sandino 2006: 280.          ,     (Thompson 1988).   ,           (Taylor L. Approaches Using Oral History : Taylor 2002: 242271).]. ,     ,     ,       .                ⠖     ,       .    ,            ,      [38 - Proctor 2006: 302.]. ʠ        ,     , ,  ,     .

 ,     ,     . ߠ  ,              . ߠ  ,   ,   ,         . ߠ     (   ),    ,           [39 - Babcock 1978.].              ,      ,       ,      [40 - Bakhtin 1984b ( .       ); Stallybrass & White 1986.     ,     ,       .].       ,                ,     [41 - Burke 2004: 3.           : Burke 1997.]. Ƞ         -     .

      ,      .       ,      ;       ,      ,  ,       [42 - Breward 1995: 12.].       (     ),    ,  , ,   ,   ,   ,       ,     [43 -      軠      ,         (Evans 2003: 3).].      ,     ,     ,    ,  ,      .         ,     ,    ,   ,  .           fashion studies .




 1

   .  


 1980?         ,       ,     .    ,      ,           ,   1940? 1950?.  ,  1980?       ,       XX ,         ,    [44 -      ,    ,        ࠖ      (Baines 1981).].

     ,    1980??      ,   :    ࠖ     .        (bodycon look);     ,    ,     .            ;        ,    XX     .     1980?      (power suit),    ,        ,       .             ,   ,    . ,   .[45 - .            (Entwistle 1997).       -,         1980?; .: Carter-DavidS.Wearing it to Work It or Wearing it to Work: Fashions in the Making of The Black Professional (  Carter-David 2011).].          1988 Working Girl (      .. .) (.1).    (,   )   ,       ,    ,    ࠖ     . ,               .    (The Womans Dress for Success Book)[46 - Molloy 1980.].

  ,        ,         ,      ,         .             ,          .         ,          ,            .         .      ,       ,  ,    1980?  ,     .        ,   1950?. ,   1980?       ,         1985     .

         ,     ,     ,    .   1980?           .             XX;       ,   1980? ,  , 1990?:            Comme des Gar?ons  ,        ,     .   1980? , ,        ,     .           ,       ,     ,    ,         .       .     ,        -    ,    ,    ,   ,   XX  .    ,         .     ,        ,   ,       : , , . Ѡ     ,      ,    ,     ,    XX   .     ,       , , ,         XVIIIXIX⠖,              .  ,            ,         ,     ,    ,       [47 -      . ., : Wilcox 2004; Evans & Thornton 1989; Arnold 2002.].






.1.    Working Girl. 1988  20thCentFox.     Everett Collection



      ,           .    XX          ໠ ,     ,        .  ,               ,   ,       ,  ,          .  ,       ,      XX. (ߠ       ,  ,               .     , ,    gyne,        .  ,      .   ,     ,        ,           [48 -        蠫     (Apter 1998).].)


 

,             ,       .   ,  ,    ,      ,     .   ,    ,     ,    ,      [49 - Russo 1995: 16.].       :        ,       [50 -        .: ConnellyF.S. Introduction : Connelly 2003: 119.].       The Female Grotesque  ,          :   <>  頖grotto-esque <>       ,      ,       (        )[51 - Russo 1995: 1.].

,     ,    ,        . -          ,     , ,   ,    .  ,         ,    :     ,        (,    XVIII ,    ),   ,  [52 - Stafford B.M.Conceiving : Connelly 2003: 81.]. Ƞ               <> []    [53 - Ibid.      -  S?mmtlicje hinterlassene Schriften.].

 ,      ,   ,      ,  -   .   ,         ,    Exploring the Dirty Side of Womens Health    [54 - Kirkham 2007.].          ,    ,       ,      [55 - Douglas 2002: 2, 3637.].    ,          ,     ,   -  :           ⻠    ,     [56 - Callaghan 2007: 16.]. ,      ,  -      ,  ,        ;            .  ,  ,    ,  ,       ⠫ ,  ,   ,        ,    .          ࠖ   ,      ,  ,    .    , ,   ,       [57 - ߠ  ,        : Brewster 2014.].

      -.   ,         ,          [58 - Bakhtin 1984: 118 ( .       . .:  , 1990. .132).]. Ƞ ,     ,      .   ,    ,    ,     .       ,    , ,              ,   .          ,      <>   ,      .   ,    XX    ,      ,   :



     ,   . , , , ,    , .      ,  :     ,    (   , ),   .      , : , , ,    .          <>        . <>  ,     [ ..]      - , , .    ,   ,    [59 - Ibid.: 2529 ( : 3637).].


    ,     (      )        ,   ,    ,       ,     ,     .       ,  ,       XX,        . ,            ,    ,   - ,  .               ,       :



 ,      :       ,       .  ࠖ    .         .     ,    .      ,       ,        .  []         .  ,  ,  ,    - ,    .       ,       ,       [60 - Clark 1956: 317318.].


   ,        ,               .  ,        ,      ,      ,  [61 - Ibid.: 333.].       ,     Thefemale nude  .

   ,         ,   ,   ,        ,         .     ,      ,         ,-,     .   ,        ,  ,       ,          .           :



-          .      .      - ; ࠖ  ,   .    ,   .  , , , ;     [62 - Bakhtin 1984b: 240 ( .   . .265).].


    ,        . Ƞ      ,      ,       ,     .                .  ,            ,       .    ,



,      XIX XX,              ,             [63 - Russo 1995: 63.].


 ,       ,    ,      ,         . ,             ,   ,          [64 - Ibid.: 1012.]. ,  ,                ,           . ꠖ      ,    . Ƞ  ꠖ   ,     .   , ,           .


  

 1980?    ,  , ,      ,    ,   ,  . ,              ,    . Ƞ   ,      ,    1997 Body Meets Dress (  ),     ,     ,      ,   ,    . ʠ, 1999              ࠖ 1999       Bump and Lump ( ),      [65 -   , ,  2008 (. , . 194).].

     ,  [  ]          ,    .      Bump and Lump ( 1986/87)



   ,   ,     ,      [] .          .   蠖      [66 - Frisa & Tonchi 2004: 344.].


       , ,  ,      ,      [67 - Martin 1987: 17.       ,    ,      :      ,       ,    ,    (      // Oxford English Dictionary Online Edition).].

          ࠖ  1997,          ,    .    ,    ,         London Goes to Tokyo (  ),  1984,         [68 -    (. , . 192).].  ,      ,     1980?.                -;         .       ,  ,        ,     .  :



Ӡ    --  :  ,  ,  ,      . Ƞ    蠖       .    ,    [69 -   (. , . 191192).].


         , ,       1981  ,    ,     .  ,   Crolla,      -,      .  ,  Crolla,    ,      :



 Crolla.  ,    1981 . ,  ,     . Crolla     ,    ,    .     1980?[70 -   (. , . 182).].


    , Crolla  ,    -     .           :   ,   - ,   .          .   .    [71 -   (. , . 182).].  Crolla            .  ,        , ,    ,      .  ,      ,  ,   ,         [72 - ONeill 2007: 188.]      .


 ,   

    ,   Crolla,        .       : Crolla    ,   ,      -   ,      [73 -    (. , . 187).].    ,    -  1985/86  ,       .  ,       .     蠖Transgender and the Body ( ).        ,    ,  [74 - ʠ,           ,   /  ,   ,     ,        1980?,         .          .].      ,     ,     ,   .            1980?.       ,           .    ,   , 1980?        ,          .             ,   ,      ,   1970?       .       1980?  ,   ,    ,  ,        [75 -  .    (Wilson 1993: 12).]. , ,  ,    ,   ,     .  ,    ,              젖     ꠖ  1980?.     ,      ,      ,         ,   ,   -    (     ).

     -     Body and Soul ( , ࠖ  1986),        ,     .        ,       .     ,    ,     ,     .        ,      蠖,    . ,   ,  muscle dress ,    ,   . Ƞ        ,       ,   1938,    skeleton dress-.  ,  ,     ,    ,     ,    .    ,   i-D,            蠫 ,      ,       ,   .          [76 - Beard & McClellan 1988: 7276, 78.].

       ,   ,   ,,         ,         .         .           . ʠ,           ,           ,  .    overgarments,    ,    ,   .         [],    :



 (.. .)     ,   ,        ,     .  [   ]     []    [77 -    (. , . 186).].


Ƞ,       ,  ,       蠫  .       ,    [78 -          ,    (Body Gallery)  ;   1986 ( 1998).],  蠫  [79 -              (, 1986)     .].  Vogue    , ,  , []    , ,                 (body-consciousness)[80 - Jobey 1987: 111.].      ,         ,   .  ,   , ,   Bump and Lump      , ,  , ,   1980?    :



      ,  , :  1980-      ,    䠖  ,    . Ӡ   .    .     ,    ,     ,      <>     ,    ,    .Ƞ ,      . Ƞ   [81 -    (. , . 184, 188).].


        ,    ,    .          ,       ,   :



   .   蠖  ,    .  ,        .  ,    ,      ,    .      ,     . ߠ   ,          [82 - Ibid.].


 ,      ,         . ,       ,                [83 - ߠ       ,   ,   , 5- ,       .  ,    ,   : Rogers 1999; Rand 1995; McDonough 1999; Thomas 2003.].       ,   ;     ,   Bump and Lump   ,   TheFemale Nude ( ).    ,        1980?.             ,       ,          ,       .     ,  ,          ,    .  ,   ,     ,    Harrods Whistles,  Bloomingdales -.        ;         ,   1990?       񠖠   .

                 ,          .  ,      ,   .       ,      , ,    ,   ,           .     ,  ,      , ,    ,   ,        蠫  ,  ,  ,           :



 []       :     ࠖ , ,   .           ,    ,        .   :     ,     . ,   ,    ,  :    ,     .    ,   ,  -   ;     ,   ,        <>       ,                [84 - Nead 1992: 7.].


 ,       , ,    ,         頖     ,    :



            ,     ,   ,            ,          [85 - Ibid.].


             ;  ,     ,        -  .   ,   ,   ,    ,      ,     .

   , ,     ,    .  ,   ,               :



ߠ    𠖠,        :   , ,   ,    ,   .   [].    ,  ,      ,         [86 -    (. , . 184185).].


       :



 ,   ,     ,       蠖 . ,   , power-dressing [  ]    ;  ,  .   ,        ,      <> ߠ        .      蠖  ,     [87 -  .      (Rechowicz H. Extract from an Interview with Georgina Godley  : Rechowicz 1996:1).  .    . .  (Beard & McClellan 1988).].


, , ,    ,   ,      ,    .  ,  ,    ,  ,    ,     [88 - ,     /  1970?,         ; ., : Daly 1978 Rich 1976.].  1970?        , ,    ,  ,  ,    [89 -          (Spelman 1988).].   ,     ,  ,                 ,         ,   ;        [90 - .: Butler 1993.].       ,                  ,     [91 - ,        (Schor 1994).].   ,   ,       .       ,    ,   ,      [92 -         (     )      (Stone 2004).]. , ,         , ,     , ,         .    ,       :      ,      ,             [93 - Ibid.: 136.].

    ,  ,            ; ,  ,     蠖    .  ,       ,   .    ,     ,     ,  ,                 . ,  ,     .   ,               ( ,    )      [94 - ߠ       ,    ,       . ʠ     .].         1986,  ,       ,        ,      ,   []        [95 - Rechowicz H. Interview with Georgina Godley. .2.]. ʠ   ,   ,        :     ,             (  )  .

 ,        ,    ,      ,         XIX  (   )[96 -  ,      ,  ,      ,          (. , . 188).].     ,        ,      ,    -  :



     .  [ ] ,     . ߠ      --.   .       ࠖ    [97 -    (. , . 187188).].



 

         ,          ,    ,   .                  1980?.       ,     (      )   ,       ,   ,       (enterprising self).     ,             [98 - Heels & Morris 1992.].  ,    ,     ( ) .         1980?,      .

    ,     ,    ,          蠫  [,   ]:



      ,     : , , ,   . ,    ,   ,      ,    ,    . ,    ,          [99 - Rose 1992: 146.].


 ,   ,       ,        ,       .              :



      1980?,      ⠖           .    []       軠       ,   ,    .  ,   dress for success ( ,   ),   ; ,   , ,     ,    [100 - Entwistle 1997: 318319.].


       ,         1980?,     ,      -     .       ࠖSchool Colours ( ,  1987/88) Corporate Coding ( , ࠖ 1988).   School Colours     ;      ,       .             ,      [101 - Π    .: Buckley & Bogart 1987: 1.].       ,    ,   ,  ,          .    ,       ,      ,     .  ,    ,   1980?,   ,     ,     ,  1950?.

      ,          ,    ,     .     ,     ,   ,      [102 -   ,    ,      ,    Crolla (ONeill 2007: 177197).].                ,  1980?        .     ,       ,       .      ,



 ,      ,        , ,   ,      , , ,   [103 -  .    (Foucault 1988: 18);  .  // . 2008. 2. .96122, 100.].


   , Corporate Coding (ࠖ 1988),         1980?   ,    .   ,      ,            1980?:      .     ,     .        [104 -   , ,  2008 (. , . 192).].        ,    .         󠖠                .       ,      ,    .               .          ,       .       : Deep Freeze  ( ,        ), TV Dinner ( ,   ), Home Security   (   ) Test Tube (  ).                (  ),   ,   .   , ,       ,      ,    ,        .

   Corporate Coding             ,    1980?. Ƞ       1950?,   1980?         .




 2

  . 


     ,    Body Meets Dress   (ࠖ 1997),    Comme des Gar?ons.  ,      - 1990?,      1980?, , ,        ,  ,     .      ,  ,   ,   ,   1990? ,       1980?[105 - Ӡ              ,      ,       1990?. .: Evans 2003: 3539; Arnold 2001: 4855. Π      .: Sandino 2004: 283293.].            堖       ,   ,    ,     1997  Scenario.  1980?     ,    ,        .       -,    ,   ,   1979      ,     ,  .

  ,  ,        ,     ,      .       ,  ,   [ ]       [106 -           .  ,     ,             . Ƞ       ,      ,     (Nead 1992: 9).]. ,   1980?    ,   .          , , -,   , ,   ,  ,       ,     [107 - Ibid.: 89.].           ,     ,   , 1980?          .       ,       ,       [108 - Frisa & Tonchi 2004: 38.].

    1990?  Body Meets Dress,       .     ,  ,      ,      .     ,     ,           , 1980?        ,       .        , 1980?      .       Excess: Fashion and the Underground in the 80s (.   1980?),      ,     <>    ,        [109 - Ibid.: 15.].

      ,   ,   ,     .  1980?           ,   ,     1997   蠖  ,        ,  ,  .

    (   ),  .       .      ,      ,      :  ࠖ , ,    .            ,           .  ,     ,      ( )   .     ,  ,      ,    .    . ,      ,   ,  ,        ( 24  15  ),  ,   ,      ,          .

    ,        ,              .         ,       ,     ,     ,      .     ,   Artforum  1996:     ,      ;   ,   ,   ,            ,         [110 -  .   (Als 1996: 21).].    ,     ,          ,      ,  , , , ,    ,          ,     ,     .        ,     .  ,   ,      ,    堖      ,          .

 - ,    Comme des Gar?ons,     ,      .    ,       ,   [111 -       ,        ,        . ., : Yaeger 1997: 16.].          .   :    (      )  ,       .         , Vogue Elle      ,          .       Comme des Gar?ons,      . Ƞ    ,  ,         ,     ,    ,  ,          [112 - .       032c (Evans 2001).  .      (Lynn Yaeger),        Commes, ,     [ ].]. (  ,   1990? Comme des Gar?ons     ,    , .       ,  Comme des Gar?ons      ,  .  ,        ,  Barneys.)         ,         ,      XX. ,                .         ,   XXI        ,  ,     .   ,    ,    ,        , 1991             Vanity Fair[113 - Π    ,    , .: Oliver 2012.].      Vanity Fair        (   ),   -       [114 - ,    ,     . . : Scriviner 1991.].

        .        ,      ,        .    1980?     .   1990?     ,   Comme des Gar?ons:



  ,       ,  ,        ,    ,          ,        [115 - Sudjic 1990: 80.].


 ,        ,         Six,    Comme des Gar?ons  1988.       - ,       1980?.       ,            1980? (       ),     ,  ,         .   ,    .    ,      ,         ,      ࠖ  .    ,  ,  ;         ,   ,    .

    , ,      Body Meets Dress      .  ,   ࠖ 1996,        .     ,      ,  ,     ;         ,    , ,  ,    ,       ,    ,           .          .   ,        . , 1976    󠖠  (  ,  ),    ,          1982/83  1983/84,      ,      󻠖,        .         ,         1981.






.2.  . Untitled 296 ( , 296).       Comme des Gar?ons  1994/95.       Metro Pictures   



  ,            , ,     ,            ,        ࠖ 1994   1994/95. ʠ      ,    .     ,  ,        ,    , , ,     [116 - Respini 2012: 35.].  ,        ,     ,  ,        .  ,           ,   [117 - Π       .: Ibid.: 3538.].         XX.

 ,      Comme des Gar?ons,      . ,      ,  ,      .       ,    ,          (.2).       , -     ,       ,       .          :    ,        ,      ,         ,         .  ,    Comme des Gar?ons,  ,   ,   ,    .    ,     ,      .       ,     ,    .     ,        .    ,       : ,          , -         (.3).






.3.  . Untitled 302 ( , 302).       Comme des Gar?ons  1994/95.      Metro Pictures   



Ѡ1980?          .        Body Meets Dress (1997)       Transcending Gender (   , ࠖ  1995).            XX  ,           .     ,    ,     Commes Aoyama,   Transcending Gender  . Ƞ ,     ,        :     ,   ,    .

  Body Meets Dress,  ,        ,       1980?   1990?. Ƞ     (   ) ,  1980?,        ,   ,      ,        , 1990?       ,     [118 -        ,   1980?,     -,  ,   ,   -  ,     ,     1980?.  ,     .].  , ,    1980?     ,         ,   1997          ,    .    ,       ,  []  .     ,     , 



  ,   :      ,     ,   ,   [  ]    ,    [119 - Arnold 2001: 9495.].


     ,    ,      . ,   ,      ,      Body Meets Dress,       ,       ,     ,   ,    ,          ,     --/  .         Revolution in Poetic Language (  ),         .   ,  ,        [120 - Kristeva 1984: 137139.].  , ,    ,     ,    ,        ,   The Dialogical Imagination ( ).  ,   ,       頖  ,   (    )     ,         [121 - Bakhtin 1984 ( ..  . .: , -, 2017); Bakhtin 1981;         ( )      .     :  ,    ,    ,  .      :  ..  .   . .:  , 1975.].     ,   ,     . ,  --          堖,    ࠖ [122 - Stallybrass & White 1986: 175.].              蠫軠    ,     [123 - Oliver 1993: 12.]




  .


   .

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notes



1


Bakhtin 1984: 322323 ( .       . .:  , 1990. C. 357).




2


Ibid.: 320 ( : 354355).




3


Ibid.: 322323 ( : 357).




4


          .        1930? -  .




5


Foucault 1978: 139 ( .  ).




6


Sontag 1988: 114 ( .  ).




7


            (Harden 2012)   ,   .    (Treichler 1999).




8


Ibid.




9


Ibid.: 3.




10


 ,       ,  , ,      . ,             ,          .




11


      [/]     .           ,      蠖    ,     .      XX .: Foster 1996; Buchloh 2001.




12


  , -    ,   1990? NEA (    )     ࠖ ,  ,    .    ,       ,        (Wark 2006).          ,         (Nead 1992). Π -     -  (Chang 2003).




13


.: Goldberg 2001. : Carlson 1996; Schechner 1998; McKenzie 2004.




14


Du Gay et al. 2013: 68.




15


Stam 1989: 122.




16


Evans 2003; Arnold 2001.




17


          1990?         (Evans 2003: 57).




18


   ,     ,         ,         ,   -.     .               ,    / . .: Freud S.Repression  : Freud 19531974: 149;  .  Unconscious (, 1915),    .




19


Elias 1978. Π,     ,   ,  .  (Evans 2003: 314).




20


Evans 2003: 3.




21


         (Kayser 1963).




22


Evans 2003: 6.




23


Butler 2007; Butler 1993.




24


Butler 2004: 187188.




25


Ibid.: 197.




26


Butler 1993: 7.




27


Arnold 2001: 4862, 8094.  .         ,  ,     ().         .    ,  .    (Clover 1996).




28


Arnold 2001: 93.




29


Ibid.: 8995.




30


.: Prown J.D.Mind in Matter: An Introduction to Material Culture Theory and Method : Prown 2001: 70 (      Winterthur Portfolio. 17. No. 1).  .: Prown 2000: 11.




31


, ,  ,   , ,  /  ,        ,    .




32


Bordwell & Thompson 2004.




33


., : McRobbie 1998.




34


  Visionaire Six  ;        -.




35


Spindler 1993.




36


Haj-Najafi 2005; Shillingford 2007; de Potter 2001.




37


Sandino 2006: 280.          ,     (Thompson 1988).   ,           (Taylor L. Approaches Using Oral History : Taylor 2002: 242271).




38


Proctor 2006: 302.




39


Babcock 1978.




40


Bakhtin 1984b ( .       ); Stallybrass & White 1986.     ,     ,       .




41


Burke 2004: 3.           : Burke 1997.




42


Breward 1995: 12.




43


     軠      ,         (Evans 2003: 3).




44


     ,    ,        ࠖ      (Baines 1981).




45


.            (Entwistle 1997).       -,         1980?; .: Carter-DavidS.Wearing it to Work It or Wearing it to Work: Fashions in the Making of The Black Professional (  Carter-David 2011).




46


Molloy 1980.




47


     . ., : Wilcox 2004; Evans & Thornton 1989; Arnold 2002.




48


       蠫     (Apter 1998).




49


Russo 1995: 16.




50


       .: ConnellyF.S. Introduction : Connelly 2003: 119.




51


Russo 1995: 1.




52


Stafford B.M.Conceiving : Connelly 2003: 81.




53


Ibid.      -  S?mmtlicje hinterlassene Schriften.




54


Kirkham 2007.




55


Douglas 2002: 2, 3637.




56


Callaghan 2007: 16.




57


ߠ  ,        : Brewster 2014.




58


Bakhtin 1984: 118 ( .       . .:  , 1990. .132).




59


Ibid.: 2529 ( : 3637).




60


Clark 1956: 317318.




61


Ibid.: 333.




62


Bakhtin 1984b: 240 ( .   . .265).




63


Russo 1995: 63.




64


Ibid.: 1012.




65


  , ,  2008 (. , . 194).




66


Frisa & Tonchi 2004: 344.




67


Martin 1987: 17.       ,    ,      :      ,       ,    ,    (      // Oxford English Dictionary Online Edition).




68


   (. , . 192).




69


  (. , . 191192).




70


  (. , . 182).




71


  (. , . 182).




72


ONeill 2007: 188.




73


   (. , . 187).




74


ʠ,           ,   /  ,   ,     ,        1980?,         .          .




75


 .    (Wilson 1993: 12).




76


Beard & McClellan 1988: 7276, 78.




77


   (. , . 186).




78


         ,    (Body Gallery)  ;   1986 ( 1998).




79


             (, 1986)     .




80


Jobey 1987: 111.




81


   (. , . 184, 188).




82


Ibid.




83


ߠ       ,   ,   , 5- ,       .  ,    ,   : Rogers 1999; Rand 1995; McDonough 1999; Thomas 2003.




84


Nead 1992: 7.




85


Ibid.




86


   (. , . 184185).




87


 .      (Rechowicz H. Extract from an Interview with Georgina Godley  : Rechowicz 1996:1).  .    . .  (Beard & McClellan 1988).




88


,     /  1970?,         ; ., : Daly 1978 Rich 1976.




89


         (Spelman 1988).




90


.: Butler 1993.




91


,        (Schor 1994).




92


        (     )      (Stone 2004).




93


Ibid.: 136.




94


ߠ       ,    ,       . ʠ     .




95


Rechowicz H. Interview with Georgina Godley. .2.




96


 ,      ,  ,      ,          (. , . 188).




97


   (. , . 187188).




98


Heels & Morris 1992.




99


Rose 1992: 146.




100


Entwistle 1997: 318319.




101


Π    .: Buckley & Bogart 1987: 1.




102


  ,    ,      ,    Crolla (ONeill 2007: 177197).




103


 .    (Foucault 1988: 18);  .  // . 2008. 2. .96122, 100.




104


  , ,  2008 (. , . 192).




105


Ӡ              ,      ,       1990?. .: Evans 2003: 3539; Arnold 2001: 4855. Π      .: Sandino 2004: 283293.




106


          .  ,     ,             . Ƞ       ,      ,     (Nead 1992: 9).




107


Ibid.: 89.




108


Frisa & Tonchi 2004: 38.




109


Ibid.: 15.




110


 .   (Als 1996: 21).




111


      ,        ,        . ., : Yaeger 1997: 16.




112


.       032c (Evans 2001).  .      (Lynn Yaeger),        Commes, ,     [ ].




113


Π    ,    , .: Oliver 2012.




114


,    ,     . . : Scriviner 1991.




115


Sudjic 1990: 80.




116


Respini 2012: 35.




117


Π       .: Ibid.: 3538.




118


       ,   1980?,     -,  ,   ,   -  ,     ,     1980?.  ,     .




119


Arnold 2001: 9495.




120


Kristeva 1984: 137139.




121


Bakhtin 1984 ( ..  . .: , -, 2017); Bakhtin 1981;         ( )      .     :  ,    ,    ,  .      :  ..  .   . .:  , 1975.




122


Stallybrass & White 1986: 175.




123


Oliver 1993: 12.


