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  ,       ,         ,  , ,   ,      ,     (lint)  ,   [15 -  ,  , 21 2017, 26 2017,     30 2017; Susan V. Fisk, "Not Your Grandfather's Cotton," Crop Science Society ofAmerica, February3, 2016, www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2016/02/160203150540.htm (http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2016/02/160203150540.htm); Jonathan Wendel, "Phylogenetic History ofGossypium," video, www.eeob.iastate.edu/faculty/WendelJ/ (http://www.eeob.iastate.edu/faculty/WendelJ/); J. F. Wendel, "New World Tetraploid Cottons Contain Old World Cytoplasm," Proceedings ofthe National Academy ofScience USA 86, no. 11 (June1989): 41324136; Jonathan F. Wendel andCorrinne E. Grover, "Taxonomy andEvolution ofthe Cotton Genus, Gossypium," inCotton, ed. David D. FangandRichard G. Percy (Madison, WI: American Society ofAgronomy, 2015), 2544, www.botanicaamazonica.wiki.br/labotam/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=bib: wendel2015.pdf (http://www.botanicaamazonica.wiki.br/labotam/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=bib: wendel2015.pdf); Jonathan F. Wendel, PaulD. Olson, andJames McD. Stewart, "Genetic Diversity, Introgression, andIndependent Domestication ofOldWorld Cultivated Cotton," American Journal ofBotany 76, no. 12 (December1989): 17951806; C. L. Brubaker, F. M. Borland, andJ. F. Wendel, "The Origin andDomestication ofCotton," inCotton: Origin, History, Technology, andProduction, ed. C. Wayne Smith andJ. TomCothren (NewYork: JohnWiley, 1999): 331.].






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      ,   .    1     ,   ,  .      ,     .    .   ,      ,        [23 - Edward E. Baptist, "'Stol' andFetched Here': Enslaved Migration, Ex-slave Narratives, andVernacular History," inNew Studies inthe History ofAmerican Slavery, ed. Edward E. Baptist andStephanie M. H. Camp(Athens: University ofGeorgia Press, 2006), 243274; Federal Writers' Project ofthe Works Progress Administration, Slave Narratives: AFolk History ofSlavery inthe United States from Interviews with Former Slaves, Vol.IX (Washington, DC: Library ofCongress, 1941), 151156, www.loc.gov/resource/mesn.090/?sp=155 (http://www.loc.gov/resource/mesn.090/?sp=155).].       堖    ,     (Twelve Years aSlave)       2013.

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  ,  㠖   ,      ,  ,   .       .       ,     ,  .        .  ( )  ,      ,        [25 - Cyrus McCormick, TheCentury ofthe Reaper (NewYork: Houghton Mifflin, 1931), 12, https://archive.org/details/centuryofthereap000250mbp/page/n23 (https://archive.org/details/centuryofthereap000250mbp/page/n23); Bonnie V. Winston, "Jo Anderson," Richmond Times-Dispatch, February5, 2013, www.richmond.com/special-section/black-history/jo-anderson/article_277b0072700a-11e2-bb3d-001a4bcf6878.html (http://www.richmond.com/special-section/black-history/jo-anderson/article_277b0072%E2%80%93700a-11e2-bb3d-001a4bcf6878.html).].   ,    .

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            .     ,      ,     ,       ,      , ,     ,    ,    .     ,     [27 - Alan L. Olmstead andPaul W. Rhode, "Productivity Growth andthe Regional Dynamics ofAntebellum Southern Development" (NBER Working Paper No. 16494, Development ofthe American Economy, National Bureau ofEconomic Research, October2010); Olmsted andRhode, Creating Abundance, 98133; Edward E. Baptist inThe Half Has Never Been Told: Slavery andthe Making ofAmerican Capitalism (NewYork: Basic Books, 2014), 111144.   ,         ,     .    ,      ,        . ,   , ,        ,    . .:John E. Murray, AlanL. Olmstead, Trevor D. Logan, Jonathan B. Pritchett, andPeter L. Rousseau, "Roundtable ofReviews forThe Half Has Never Been Told," Journal ofEconomic History, September2015, 919931; "Baptism byBlood Cotton," Pseudoerasmus, September12, 2014, https://pseudoerasmus.com/2014/09/12/baptism-by-blood-cotton/ (https://pseudoerasmus.com/2014/09/12/baptism-by-blood-cotton/), and"The Baptist Question Redux: Emancipation andCotton Productivity," Pseudoerasmus, November5, 2015, https://pseudoerasmus.com/2015/11/05/bapredux/ (https://pseudoerasmus.com/2015/11/05/bapredux/).].

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,     ,  .         8500.  , , ,    .           Bombyx mori.      5500.  ,  ,    ,     .    - (16001050 ..)     ,         [28 - Yuxuan Gong, LiLi, Decai Gong, HaoYin, andJuzhong Zhang, "Biomolecular Evidence ofSilk from 8,500 Years Ago," PLOS One 11, no. 12 (December12, 2016): e0168042, http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0168042 (http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0168042); "World's Oldest Silk Fabrics Discovered inCentral China," Archaeology News Network, December5, 2019, https://archaeologynewsnetwork.blogspot.com/2019/12/worlds-oldest-silk-fabrics-discovered.html (https://archaeologynewsnetwork.blogspot.com/2019/12/worlds-oldest-silk-fabrics-discovered.html); Dieter Kuhn, "Tracing aChinese Legend: InSearch ofthe Identity ofthe 'First Sericulturalist,'" T'oung Pao, nos. 4/5 (1984): 213245.].






  .    (Yu zhi Geng zhi quan tu), 1696 (Chinese Rare Book Collection, Library ofCongress)



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1


Weiser, Mark, TheComputer forthe 21st Century, Scientific American, September1991.




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1


Sylvia L. Horwitz, TheFind ofa Lifetime: SirArthur Evans andthe Discovery ofKnossos (NewYork: Viking, 1981); Arthur J. Evans, Scripta Minoa: TheWritten Documents ofMinoan Crete with Special Reference tothe Archives ofKnossos, Vol.1 (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1909), 195199; Marie-Louise Nosch, "What's ina Name? What's ina Sign? Writing Wool, Scripting Shirts, Lettering Linen, Wording Wool, Phrasing Pants, Typing Tunics," inVerbal andNonverbal Representation inTerminology Proceedings ofthe TOTh Workshop 2013, Copenhagen-8 November2013, ed. Peder Flemestad, Lotte Weilgaard Christensen, andSusanne Lervad (Copenhagen: SAXO, Kobenhavns Universitet, 2016), 93115; Marie-Louise Nosch, "From Texts toTextiles inthe Aegean Bronze Age," inKosmos: Jewellery, Adornment andTextiles inthe Aegean Bronze Age, Proceedings ofthe 13th International Aegean Conference/13e Rencontre egeenne internationale, University ofCopenhagen, Danish National Research Foundation's Centre forTextile Research, 2126 April2010, ed. Marie-Louise Nosch andRobert Laffineur (Liege: Petters Leuven, 2012),46.




2


   ,     . .:Clarke's three laws, Wikipedia, last modified February3, 2020, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clarke's_three_laws (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clarke's_three_laws).




3


Π,   , .:Cristian Violatti, Civilization: Definition, Ancient History Encyclopedia, December4, 2014, www.ancient.eu/civilization/ (http://www.ancient.eu/civilization/).     .: Mordecai M. Kaplan, Judaism asa Civilization: Toward aReconstruction ofAmerican-Jewish Life (Philadelphia: Jewish Publication Society ofAmerica, 1981),179.




4


Jerry Z. Muller, AdamSmith inHisTime andOurs: Designing theDecent Society (NewYork: FreePress, 1993),19.




5


Marie-Louise Nosch, "The Loom andthe Ship inAncient Greece: Shared Knowledge, Shared Terminology, Cross-Crafts, orCognitive Maritime-Textile Archaeology," inWeben undGewebe inder Antike. Materialitat Reprasentation Episteme Metapoetik, ed. Henriette Harich-Schwartzbauer (Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2015), 109132.  ,  ,    ,   ,   tissue  ()  texere.




6


.:www.etymonline.com/word/*teks-#etymonline_v_52573 (http://www.etymonline.com/word/*teks-#etymonline_v_52573); Ellen Harlizius-Kl?ck, "Arithmetics andWeaving from Penelope's Loom toComputing," M?nchner Wissenschaftstage (poster), October1821, 2008; Patricia Marks Greenfield, Weaving Generations Together: Evolving Creativity inthe Maya ofChiapas (Santa Fe, NM: School ofAmerican Research Press, 2004), 151; www.etymonline.com/word/sutra (http://www.etymonline.com/word/sutra); www.etymonline.com/word/tantra (http://www.etymonline.com/word/tantra); Cheng Weiji, ed., History ofTextile Technology inAncient China (NewYork: Science Press, 1992),2.




7


David Hume, "Of Refinement inthe Arts," inEssays, Moral, Political, andLiterary, ed. Eugene F. Miller (Indianapolis: Liberty Fund, 1987), 273, www.econlib.org/library/LFBooks/Hume/hmMPL25.html (http://www.econlib.org/library/LFBooks/Hume/hmMPL25.html).




8


 ,   (,   ),  .




9


Elizabeth Wayland Barber, Women's Work, theFirst 20,000 Years: Women, Cloth, andSociety inEarly Times (NewYork: W. W. Norton, 1994),45.




10


Karen Hardy, "Prehistoric String Theory: HowTwisted Fibres Helped Shape theWorld," Antiquity 82, no. 316 (June2008): 275.        , ,     . .:Barbara Andersen, "Style andSelf-Making: String Bag Production inthe Papua New Guinea Highlands," Anthropology Today 31, no. 5 (October2015): 1620.




11


M.L. Ryder, Sheep & Man (London: Gerald Duckworth & Co., 1983), 385; Melinda A. Zeder, "Domestication andEarly Agriculture inthe Mediterranean Basin: Origins, Diffusion, andImpact," Proceedings ofthe National Academy ofSciences 105, no. 33 (August19, 2003): 1159711604; Marie-Louise Nosch, "The Wool Age: Traditions andInnovations inTextile Production, Consumption andAdministration inthe Late Bronze Age Aegean" (,  2014        : NewDirections: Examining thePast, Creating theFuture, LosAngeles, CA, September1014, 2014).




12


 -       (linseed oil)   (flaxseed oil).        ,    linseed oil      .




13


Ehud Weiss andDaniel Zohary, "The Neolithic Southwest Asian Founder Crops: Their Biology andArchaeobotany," Supplement, Current Anthropology 52, no. S4 (October2011): S237S254; Robin G. Allaby, Gregory W. Peterson, David Andrew Merriwether, andYong-Bi Fu, "Evidence ofthe Domestication History ofFlax (Linum usitatissimum L.) from Genetic Diversity ofthe sad2 Locus," Theoretical andApplied Genetics 112, no. 1 (January2006): 5865. ,   ,     :    , ,  ,  .       .      .




14


   ,   ,  8850 ( 90)  9210 ( 300) .      8500 ( 220)  8810 ( 120) . .:Tamar Schick, "Cordage, Basketry, andFabrics," inNahal Hemar Cave, ed. OferBar-Yosef andDavid Alon (Jerusalem: Israel Department ofAntiquities andMuseums, 1988), 3138.




15


 ,  , 21 2017, 26 2017,     30 2017; Susan V. Fisk, "Not Your Grandfather's Cotton," Crop Science Society ofAmerica, February3, 2016, www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2016/02/160203150540.htm (http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2016/02/160203150540.htm); Jonathan Wendel, "Phylogenetic History ofGossypium," video, www.eeob.iastate.edu/faculty/WendelJ/ (http://www.eeob.iastate.edu/faculty/WendelJ/); J. F. Wendel, "New World Tetraploid Cottons Contain Old World Cytoplasm," Proceedings ofthe National Academy ofScience USA 86, no. 11 (June1989): 41324136; Jonathan F. Wendel andCorrinne E. Grover, "Taxonomy andEvolution ofthe Cotton Genus, Gossypium," inCotton, ed. David D. FangandRichard G. Percy (Madison, WI: American Society ofAgronomy, 2015), 2544, www.botanicaamazonica.wiki.br/labotam/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=bib: wendel2015.pdf (http://www.botanicaamazonica.wiki.br/labotam/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=bib: wendel2015.pdf); Jonathan F. Wendel, PaulD. Olson, andJames McD. Stewart, "Genetic Diversity, Introgression, andIndependent Domestication ofOldWorld Cultivated Cotton," American Journal ofBotany 76, no. 12 (December1989): 17951806; C. L. Brubaker, F. M. Borland, andJ. F. Wendel, "The Origin andDomestication ofCotton," inCotton: Origin, History, Technology, andProduction, ed. C. Wayne Smith andJ. TomCothren (NewYork: JohnWiley, 1999): 331.




16


      .       .




17


Elizabeth Baker Brite andJohn M. Marston, "Environmental Change, Agricultural Innovation, andthe Spread ofCotton Agriculture inthe Old World," Journal ofAnthropological Archaeology 32, no. 1 (March2013): 3953;  ,  , 20 2017;  ,  , 30 2017; Elizabeth Baker Brite, Gairatdin Khozhaniyazov, JohnM. Marston, Michelle Negus Cleary, andFiona J. Kidd, "Kara-tepe, Karakalpakstan: Agropastoralism ina Central Eurasian Oasis inthe 4th/5th Century A. D. Transition," Journal ofField Archaeology 42 (2017): 514529, http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00934690.2017.1365563 (http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00934690.2017.1365563).




18


Kim MacQuarrie, TheLast Days ofthe Incas (NewYork: Simon & Schuster, 2007), 2728, 58, 60; David Tollen, "Pre-Columbian Cotton Armor: Better than Steel," Pints ofHistory, August10, 2011, https://pintsofhistory.com/2011/08/10/mesoamerican-cotton-armor-better-than-steel/ (https://pintsofhistory.com/2011/08/10/mesoamerican-cotton-armor-better-than-steel/); Frances Berdan andPatricia Rieff Anawalt, TheEssential Codex Mendoza (Berkeley: University ofCalifornia Press, 1997),186.




19


 -   Gossypium barbadense,   . ʠ       ( ,    )   .   仠 Gossypium hirsutum,    .     G. hirsutum   90%    ,   G. barbadense    .  ,   (, ; variety) ,  ,      ( ) ,      (, ,   ).




20


Jane Thompson-Stahr, TheBurling Books: Ancestors andDescendants ofEdward andGrace Burling, Quakers (16002000) (Baltimore: Gateway Press, 2001), 314322; Robert Lowry andWilliam H. McCardle, TheHistory ofMississippi forUseinSchools (NewYork: University Publishing Company, 1900), 5859.




21


John Hebron Moore, "Cotton Breeding inthe Old South," Agricultural History 30, no. 3 (July1956): 95104; Alan L. Olmstead andPaul W. Rhode, Creating Abundance: Biological Innovation andAmerican Agricultural Development (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2008), 98133; O. L. MayandK. E. Lege, "Development ofthe World Cotton Industry" inCotton: Origin, History, Technology, andProduction, ed. C. Wayne Smith andJ. TomCothren (NewYork: JohnWiley & Sons, 1999), 7778.




22


Gavin Wright, Slavery andAmerican Economic Development (Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press, 2006), 85; Dunbar Rowland, TheOfficial andStatistical Register ofthe State ofMississippi 1912 (Nashville, TN: Press ofBrandon Printing, 1912), 135136.




23


Edward E. Baptist, "'Stol' andFetched Here': Enslaved Migration, Ex-slave Narratives, andVernacular History," inNew Studies inthe History ofAmerican Slavery, ed. Edward E. Baptist andStephanie M. H. Camp(Athens: University ofGeorgia Press, 2006), 243274; Federal Writers' Project ofthe Works Progress Administration, Slave Narratives: AFolk History ofSlavery inthe United States from Interviews with Former Slaves, Vol.IX (Washington, DC: Library ofCongress, 1941), 151156, www.loc.gov/resource/mesn.090/?sp=155 (http://www.loc.gov/resource/mesn.090/?sp=155).




24


 1860,   ,   4,56  , 1870 4,4, 1880-젖 6,6.  18601870     40  55% -      .  ,      , ,  .  1880-          ,   . .:MayandLege, "Development ofthe World Cotton Industry," 8487; David J. Libby, Slavery andFrontier Mississippi 17201835 (Jackson: University Press ofMississippi, 2004), 3778. Π        .:Wright, Slavery andAmerican Economic Development, 83122.




25


Cyrus McCormick, TheCentury ofthe Reaper (NewYork: Houghton Mifflin, 1931), 12, https://archive.org/details/centuryofthereap000250mbp/page/n23 (https://archive.org/details/centuryofthereap000250mbp/page/n23); Bonnie V. Winston, "Jo Anderson," Richmond Times-Dispatch, February5, 2013, www.richmond.com/special-section/black-history/jo-anderson/article_277b0072700a-11e2-bb3d-001a4bcf6878.html (http://www.richmond.com/special-section/black-history/jo-anderson/article_277b0072%E2%80%93700a-11e2-bb3d-001a4bcf6878.html).




26


Moore, "Cotton Breeding inthe Old South," 99101; M. W. Philips, "Cotton Seed," Vicksburg (MS) Weekly Sentinel, April28, 1847, 1. Π  .:Solon Robinson, Solon Robinson, Pioneer andAgriculturalist: Selected Writings, Vol.II, ed. Herbert Anthony Kellar (Indianapolis: Indianapolis Historical Bureau, 1936), 127131.




27


Alan L. Olmstead andPaul W. Rhode, "Productivity Growth andthe Regional Dynamics ofAntebellum Southern Development" (NBER Working Paper No. 16494, Development ofthe American Economy, National Bureau ofEconomic Research, October2010); Olmsted andRhode, Creating Abundance, 98133; Edward E. Baptist inThe Half Has Never Been Told: Slavery andthe Making ofAmerican Capitalism (NewYork: Basic Books, 2014), 111144.   ,         ,     .    ,      ,        . ,   , ,        ,    . .:John E. Murray, AlanL. Olmstead, Trevor D. Logan, Jonathan B. Pritchett, andPeter L. Rousseau, "Roundtable ofReviews forThe Half Has Never Been Told," Journal ofEconomic History, September2015, 919931; "Baptism byBlood Cotton," Pseudoerasmus, September12, 2014, https://pseudoerasmus.com/2014/09/12/baptism-by-blood-cotton/ (https://pseudoerasmus.com/2014/09/12/baptism-by-blood-cotton/), and"The Baptist Question Redux: Emancipation andCotton Productivity," Pseudoerasmus, November5, 2015, https://pseudoerasmus.com/2015/11/05/bapredux/ (https://pseudoerasmus.com/2015/11/05/bapredux/).




28


Yuxuan Gong, LiLi, Decai Gong, HaoYin, andJuzhong Zhang, "Biomolecular Evidence ofSilk from 8,500 Years Ago," PLOS One 11, no. 12 (December12, 2016): e0168042, http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0168042 (http://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0168042); "World's Oldest Silk Fabrics Discovered inCentral China," Archaeology News Network, December5, 2019, https://archaeologynewsnetwork.blogspot.com/2019/12/worlds-oldest-silk-fabrics-discovered.html (https://archaeologynewsnetwork.blogspot.com/2019/12/worlds-oldest-silk-fabrics-discovered.html); Dieter Kuhn, "Tracing aChinese Legend: InSearch ofthe Identity ofthe 'First Sericulturalist,'" T'oung Pao, nos. 4/5 (1984): 213245.




29


Angela Yu-Yun Sheng, Textile Use, Technology, andChange inRural Textile Production inSong, China (9601279) ( , University ofPennsylvania, 1990), 185186.




30


Sheng, Textile Use, Technology, andChange, 2340, 200209.


