-.      
 -


   
  -           .   ,    ,       ,     .   -    -  ,    ,   ,                 .    -     ?        ,   ?    -  ,     ,  ,        ,      ?             ,      ,     ,    -,     .  -   -        ( III).





 -

-:.      



   





 -

-:

     







  



2023




NICK REES-ROBERTS

Fashion Film

Art and Advertising in the Digital Age







BLOOMSBURY

VISUAL ARTS

2018


 [392(091)(100)"19"]:791

 85.126.6(0)6-004.75:85.37

54

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  .



  . 

 -

-:       /  -. .:   , 2023. (    ).

  -           .   ,    ,       ,     .   -    -  ,    ,   ,                 .    -     ?        ,   ?    -  ,     ,  ,        ,      ?             ,      ,     ,    -,     .  -   -        ( III).

     Photo by Dynamic Wang on Unsplash.com



ISBN 978-5-4448-2359-6



 Nick Rees-Roberts, Fashion Film.

Art and Advertising in the Digital Age

          Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.



 . ,   , 2023

 . ,  , 2023

    , 2023







       2012 ,         .             Bloomsbury         .   ,     ,    ,     ,             .        ,    .    ,  2011             POLI:   (POLI: Politique de limage),         .              ()       (Film and Fashion),        .              ,    ,        .     ,    ,          ,    .          :  ,    -     ,    ,  ,        ,   ,  2015          ,      ,        ,                .    ,                  ,         ,   ,      2014       ,  :     - (New Medium, Diverse Messages: Convention and Transgression in the Fashion Film)    .    ,   ,   ,          ,             .                 ,      .         ,       Vogue China,     -                  .  ,     ,         .   ,  ,  ,  ,  ,     .    ,                 (Clbration).       ,       (The Neon Demon). ,           SHOWstudio            .

            , ,  (Film, Fashion and Consumption),     (The Journal of European Popular Culture)      :    (Fashion Tales: Feeding the Imaginary; Peter Lang, 2017).     ,      .

    ,             ,          ,  -         ,                ,        .



,  2018 






 -


      .

 

    Viva Vena!  -  Vena Cava    - (Fashion Film; , 2013),    ,      .         ,         ,  ,    .    ,         ,     .    --:       .     ?  .     -,   .    ,   .

 ,     ,   2016   The New York Times      :        -   . ,              , ,   ,    , ,        [1 - Ember 2016.].  ,             ,      ,          .          ,   Instagram[2 -   :   Meta Platforms Inc.       Facebook  Instagram         22  2022      .]  Pinterest (       ,     Vine   Twitter),            ,    ,             .  2013         ,      :    ,   ?      ,     . ,         ,       ,         [3 - Menkes 2013.].   ,       ,     .     ,    ,                          ,    ,   .    , -, ,  ,         ,       ,     (  ),      .

         -?       , ,       ?   ,  -      廠 ?       -            .  The Business of Fashion,       ,      - .    ,     ( ,       ,   Gucci, Kenzo, Prada, Miu Miu  Alexander Wang),   - - (     ,  Vogue, Dazed Digital  i-D Vice)  --   ,         ( ,       SHOWstudio,   ).     -    (A Shaded View on Fashion Film),      , ,        ,           ( , -,  ),        ,     .      -,            . ,  2013        - (Holi Holy; , 2013),     ,   -.       ,  2013            [4 -          (    ). . .].   ,   -,        ,     ,         .






. 1.    - (2013).      ()  Iconoclast ()



      -    .  2016           2 (Zoolander No. 2),  -   ,     ,    ,       .       The Guardian     -  ,     ,   :   ,      (Cover Girl; , 1944),   (Funny Face; , 1957)   (Blow-Up; , 1966),  :   Prada (The Devil Wears Prada; , 2006)    (The September Issue; , 2009);               (Notebooks on Cities and Clothes; , 1989)         (Mannequin; , 1987),          .           (Clueless; , 1995),            ,    1990? .        ;    -,          ( ),   .      ,              Ala?a.      ,  ,  ໠  .   ,        ,   ,   2014  -          (Fancy)      .  ,  2017                 Hello!     -,    .       ,     ,   ,        (Breakfast at Tiffanys; , 1961)      (Pretty Woman; , 1990)[5 - Anon 2017.].

-컠  ,        :       ,         ,   .  -     ,           .          -.      ,   ,          ,         .       -    ,   X     .    ,        ,      -           ,       ,        .

    ,      ,   ,        -.           ,    ,   . -,   -?      ?       ?       ?    -     ?     ,    ?   - ?      -  (   )  - (    )? -,  -   ?        ?       -        ?   ,    ,  -       ,           ? , -,       -,      ,    -  ,       ?  ,       ,      ,      ?

        -, ,  ,       : , ,    : , , . ,   ,        ,    -    ,          .      ,         ,       , ,      ,             .     -       ,    ,   ,     ,      ,  ,         .             -,       ,     ,    -,    .       ,          (  ,    )    (         ).

   :       -       ,          .           [6 -         .: Rocamora 2013.        .: Jenkins et al. 2013.].  -,  ,  , ,   .  2000?   -  ,      ,      ,    ,   -    PR,       .          ,       ,  Vogue,      . ,   , Vogue China,   2005 ,            :    ,   iPad  iPhone (Vogue Mini),    Vogue Film  Vogue TV   Youku[7 - - Vogue China    youku.com, .: i.youku.com/i/UMzA4ODAyNDY0?spm=a2hww.20023042.uerCenter.5~5!2~A (   26.11.2017).].     ,         , Vogue China         -   ,     ,   .

,    , -   ,                       . -,  ,      ,   ,   -,   ,   ,     [8 -     ,      (Elsaesser 2013).].      -       .   -         ,      .   ,         ,           .             ,  ,  .   ,   ,     ,  ( )     ,    .          ,   ,   ,     ,     : , , .

      -                . ,        .  1980?                    ,                .  1990   -  -  (   )       ,       ,       Millennium   .  - ,    ,  -  ,       ,    ,    .  ,           ,              ,             ,    ,     .       , ,   [9 - McColl 1990.  -   ,       (Uhlirova 2013b).].

   -      ,          .            ,   ,   ,       ,    ,   .            . ,   ,        ,  -      ,          ,         [10 - Church Gibson 2012: 11.].    -   ,            [11 - Ibid.: 83.].  ,  ,            ,    (Pr?t-?-porter; , 1994)    Prada (2006).   ,      -    I  (   ,     )   :  ,      ,    ,           .    ,  ,   ,   .                   ,    [12 - Radner 2011: 135.].

       ,   -                     ,     ,   .     -      , ,   .      .             ,     -. ,                         ,         .  ,   ,             ,   ,        .   , ,    ,  ,    .          . ,      ,   ,             ,      ,      .          -     (Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie; , 2016)       Louis Vuitton   Manolo Blahnik,                (Sex and the City; , 2008).   ,       ,       ,          ,     .     Louis Vuitton,            .   (The Darjeeling Limited, 2007),              ,            ,    .

           .       .    Kingsman,              .         ,   (The Secret Service, 2015)    (The Golden Circle, 2017),   ,    -,              ,    ,    -,            ,    .   Kingsman      ,       -,   , ,               (Casino Royale; , 2006),               2000? .    Kingsman     ,        (            ),        ,   -,      .  Kingsman,    ,      ,        (kingsmen    )        .  ,      ,       ,  - ( . )      .         ,           -,  ,    . Kingsman     Huntsman,   -,       ,     .     ,   1960? ,            (The Ipcress File; , 1965).  ,     ,          1965       ,      ,    ,        .

  ,  Kingsman    ,     ,               .        Kingsman  -     Mr Porter,          ,      .          :   ,     ,  ,     .  Mr Porter      :     ,        -  Kingsman,      ,     ,       ,                .  ,     .        ,  ,    ,    -,   ,  ,    ,          ,    .        :    ,     ,    .            , ,     (   Kingsman       414  )      [13 -     Kingsman:   .: www.boxofficemojo.com/movies/?id=secretservice.htm (   18.09.2017).].   2017      Kingsman:  ,    , Mr Porter   ,    ,           : ,  Stetson  - Mister Freedom.  2017    Kingsman      ,         .           ,   [14 - . : Montes 2017.].

     ,   :        [15 - Friedman 2014.]. ,  ,        -    .                  ,      (    ,   )      :      ,        ,      .     ,               BBC  :   Vogue (Absolutely Fashion: Inside British Vogue, 2016)     Dior (Inside Dior, 2017),  Channel 4.            :    1960?     (Dim Dam Dom)     (The Clothes Show),  19801990? ,    1997    Fashion TV,     .       ,     ,  Vogue  Dazed,     ,         ,        .

             , , , ,        ,      ,         .        ,                .        ,    :  ,  ,      , ,  ,             .               -,     ,      .  ,           .          ,             ,   .  ,    ,    (Gossip Girl), ,   ,     ,    ,  ,   ,   ,       ,      ,      ,        ,     [16 - Warner 2014: 14, 18, 155.].              ( ).         ( ).  ,    ,       :  ,  ,  -.        ,  :    ,     .

                  -:       ,           .  ,    ,         ,   2000?   SHOWstudio.com      ,   ,    .    ,    ,    .           . SHOWstudio   -       .   ,   ,        .      ,                           .     ,  Red Epic,         ,        .       ,         ,    .       .

   ,  [-]      .       ,  -  .  ,          .   -      .      .    ,        ,   -    .  ,  ,    ,      ;   ,      . <>    .  , ,   ,       .   SHOWstudio      [17 - . : Kedves 2013: 3132.].

     -   ,     ,      ,      .  ,     ,  ,    -   ,        .    ,          ,    .   ,     , ,         ,        ,       -    ?[18 - Uhlirova 2013a: 122.]      -  ,    .      ,      (     , , ),  ,      ,     .          ,     ,   .   ,       -,             ,          (, ,  )  .         .  ,  -               ,     ?                   ,    .       ,  , ,      .                 ,      ,        ,    ,         ,     .    ,    -      ,                   .  ,              --,             .

     ,   -    ,       : , , , ,   .    :         .    -          ,   .   ,          ,   ,                [19 - Evans 2011.].       ,  , , ,  .     -            ,        -.




 1

:  -



        -: , ,  ,     -       , ,   .   :        Instagram,    4,7  ,        . ,             ,  ,  ?     Instagram,   2013  (,  2015 ,    ,   2016?  Instagram Stories,        ),   -        .   2010?         ,   -  ,       .       -,  -   ,   ,  ,   ,       ,         .               ,        ,          ,        .    ,       ,   , -               .         -  ,    Burberry    Snapchat,     ,     . .    Grindr,   2016        .   ,            ,        .  ,     ,   -     ,    ,      .






. 1.1.     ,   -  Versus Versace  Antony Vaccarello 2015 .  Dazed Digital.     ()  Dazed Digital ()






 


          ,    .     ,      ,      ,          .   ,  ,     . ,  -           ,        Facebook  Instagram,    ,        ,       ,      .  ,                  ,     .

    ,     ,    .      Gucci          .   2014     Gucci      ,     ,         ,     19922004    ,   -    ,     .       ,      1970? ,   - Halston  1990?            ,      ,      .       ,     ,                       .        ,    1970? ,       54,   .       ,       .         ,       ,           Gucci,       ,  . ,  -  2017       ,      ,      Burberry, Tom Ford  Vetements.  ,                  ,     , ,           [20 - Mead 2016; Michault 2016.].             , ,   .     : 2017   Gucci    50 ,            [21 -      Kering .: Agnew 2017.].

                     ,   2015      ,     ,    ,       :

       ,         ,            .    ,    ,   , , , ,  , ,           : ,   -     ,      ,    Gucci[22 - Wingfield 2016.].

 , ,    ,      .       Gucci   2017      ,           ,    ,        Bloom.   Gucci         ,            .      ,                -:   -  2017        -, ,      .         - ( My Perfect Cousin  The Undertones, 1980),         ,   -              .            ,       ;         -.       2017     (Soul Scene),      Mildmay Club              1960?  1970? ,       .                    ,          :        .  ,   360   3D- ,                      .

     .        -    Gucci Stories          (The Myth of Orpheus and Eurydice)      ,      .      2016 ,          -.               .        (A Fashion Story),    2016     -,       :       .   ,       2016   ,          .               ,        .    -  2017                  - .             -  2016 ,   .        ,    (Christiane F.; , 1981)             1970? ,         ,      Station to Station     .          ,             Dior Homme,     .   Gucci      ,   ,     ,     ,          .      ,     Heroes (1977),     Gucci   ,       .   ,        ,     ,      ,     ,    :    ,         ,           .




  -  


 2015     Gucci       ,      ,        .   ,    -     ,   .

   ,      push-,         ,    ,   ,      ,          .  ,       ,      ,   ,     -,   ,         ,   .    ,      ,       ,        .           (L Odysse, 2012), PR-,           Cartier,          (La Lgende de Shalimar, 2013)     Guerlain,      -,   ,   XVII ,     .  -,      , ,        Cartier,                 Publicis[23 -     Cartier .: ifmparis.blog.lemonde.fr/2013/11/08/luxe-publicite-et-cinema (   11.08.2017)  o.nouvelobs.com/mode/20120427.OBS7247/videos-quand-la-pub-se-fait-un-film.html (   11.08.2017).],   .       ,    ,  ,  ,     ,    ,      ,        [24 - Berthelot-Guiet K. L Hyperpublicitarisation // Patrin-Lecl?re et al. 2014. P. 158169.].    Cartier  Guerlain    -     ,         ,          .             ,         ,    [25 - Jameson 1991.].

          ໠  ,             .  ,            ,      :     , ,   ,       ,   ,    ,      ,  :  ,     ,      [26 - Bordwell 2002.].  ,     ,                  ,      ,        ,      ,    :    Chanel (Chanel N5),    Dior (Jadore).         ,    ,    ,     .      [27 - Lipovetsky & Serroy 2007: 270.].    ,          ,    2001 ,   BMW        BMW  (The Hire)      ( ),     ,  ,  ,   ,     .              DVD-,               , ,       ,      ,        [28 - Manovich 2011.].

   Cartier  ,        ,      ,         . ,          -  1980?  1990? ,     ,     :     ,            ,       ,  ,       .   ,     Chanel go?ste (1990)  Coco (1991),      ,      :            --,   , ,   ,      ,    -             ,           .

 (  )            ,     -,        Gucci Flora,   2009    .          ,         ,     ;        ,           ,    1960? ,    -      .              - ,          ,     .       Cartier  Guerlain,          .    -        ,  ,       .          ,          :               .         ,       [29 - De M?redieu 1985: 106.].  -   ,  ,    ,    :       ,       .         ,      [30 - Dyer 2007: 1.],           ,    -   .   ,   2001      Shalimar  Guerlain                              (In the Mood for Love; Wong 2000),            .




 ,  ,  


   ,       ,   -      ,   .      ,         -  ,               ,             .    -        . ,        (Under, 2014),           - ,        ,   2015       -    (A Shaded View of Fashion Film),        .                 Nowness,     .  ,  2016 ,  Armani         Acqua di Gioia,       ,     .   ,     ,        Armani,       : , , , ໠       1:1,      Instagram.  ,            ,    MOVEment   ,            2015   Another Magazine    ,    Dazed group.           ,           .      (Fallen),        ,   ;      .        ,       ;       ,       .

  - ,    ,    ,               . ,    ,      ,      .       ,                     [31 - Wernick 1991.],        ,        ,      [32 - Williams 2005: 170195. . . 170.]   ,     .        ,       ,   .       ,   [33 - Ibid.: 183.]. ,    ,          ,   ,      .  :

 []       ,     ,   ,    ,      .   ,     ,  ,     ;    ,      ,       ,    [34 - Williamson 1978: 1314.].

              (                ).   --          ,  ,     ,             [35 - McAllister & West 2013: 18. . . 2.].  ATL-  BTL-[36 - ATL (. above-the-line   )      ,        (, , , ,    ),    . BTL (. below-the-line   )    ,     ,   ,   ( , -,   . .). . .],     ,    ,     -,    - (   )   ,    ,    ,   .        ,        PR   /  /      -     ,                 .  ,  -   ,   :                   ,    ,            [37 - Powell 2013: 4.]. ,      push-     ,       ,    ,        ,    ,      .    ,                   ,           ,    .






. 1.2.      (2014).   ,  Human Films, -  






. 1.3.     (2015).   ,  Psycho, -  



     ,      ,    ,    ,     ,            .      ,      ,   ,         ,   ,       ,    ,           .              .    H&M          ,        :    :        (Close the Loop: Sustainable Fashion Through Recycled Clothes, 2015)      (Rewear It, 2016)          M. I. A.,    .           ,      , ,       ,          (, ,   ),        .

       ,      ,         -       .      (Handprint; Nighy, 2013),    Eco-Age    White Lodge,         ,      ,       .     2013              Green Carpet Challenge (   )  Net-a-Porter.         ,         .                 (  )     ,        .       , ,          ,   ,         .






. 1.4.       (2011).   



          ,   ,              .      -,            (Headpieces for Peace, 2011),       ,                    .     ,        - (Anti-Oedipe), ,      ,    ,  ,  -    ,            .           ,  ,      [38 - Mitrani J. Mission Statement for Headpieces for Fashion (2011). www.jessicamitranistudio.com/ headpieces-for-peace (   24.01.2018).].       threeASFOUR     (Insalaam Inshalom),        -  -  2011 .   ,          ,    ,   ,    ,            [39 -   Insalaam Inshalom  threeASFOUR .: Stromberg 2011.].     ,      ,   ,     ,    .       ,            ,        -        . ,  2014 , ,     ,      - (  )    .    ,                     ,    ,      ,         .               .       -    ,   ⻠   ,    ,  ,      X [40 - Gunning 1990.].

     ,   -,    (      Selfridges)    (   -  SHOWstudio),     -            , ,    .      Selfridges,      ,   .     (Incredible Machines, 2016)        ,         ,      -/ ,      ,           ,       .  2014      (Beauty Project)  ,            . ,   ,   (Beauty I See You Everywhere)      ,    ,       ,          ,     (Change Is a Beautiful Thing)       .       Selfridges      ,     (The Masters, 2014),      ,        Bright New Things,   2015      .      (Define Beauty),  Nowness,      (  ?) (Babyface (Am I Ugly?), 2016).  ,                    ,         -   ,     .

 ,      -    ,       ,             ,       .             -       ,        , ,   .         -,       ,      .  ,   -    ,  ,   ,   ,        ,   ,        ,    ,       .  ,     -,     , ,    ,             ,             -  .              ,         ,     .  -,  ,      ,      ,  ,  , ;         ,  , ,      [41 - Needham 2013. . . 105  106.].     ,                 ,        ,   [42 - Wood 2007: 5.].   , ,    ,    ,      ,   ,      :   ,    .

   ,   -          :        ( Moschino  MSGM),     -,   Adidas  Nike, ,        -.         ,    ,               ,     YouTube.   ,     2015     Forbes        ,  ,       [43 - Eytan D. The Film Director Behind Fashions Viral Videos: Luca Finotti // Forbes. 2015. March 25. www.forbes.com/sites/declaneytan/2015/03/25/the-film-director-behind-fashions-viral-videos-luca-finotti/#259938fef0f8 (   26.01.2018).]. ,       ,     NikeLab,  # (#WeBelieveInThePowerOfLove).          -,         2017 .        ,        ,          ,    Y  Z    .   ,     Nike         S?MEN   ,     ,      ,     ,   .   Nike       ,          .       -     ( -,   ).          ,     Nike     ,    .   #,      -,    -,             ,          ,         .




 : -   


         ,      -        ,        -.   2012   ,  -  Moving Image & Content,         ,          The Business of Fashion,    :        -?    ,       ,    ,       ,     ,   ,    ,    :  ,   ,   [44 - Quynh 2012.].  ,   -      ,       ;                 ;        ,      ;      ,     ,   ; ,           : ,  , ,      .

        ,       -        Lanvin  2011 .  -  ,    ,    ;        ,    ,     (Pitbull).        -       -,     .  ,           ,     ,    ,       , ,   ,      :  ,   ,     ,                   ?          -   ,       [45 -        - (Uhlirova 2013b).].       Lanvin (    2012)    ,     -       :   ,        ,      Cookieman   --,     ,      YouTube.

   -          . , ,         ,   ,            .       -  2016    ,   Instagram ,   Director X    (Skrillex)      ໠   ,     ,       -.  -     .           I Want Your Love,     ,      -    2016 ,      .           .           Pet Shop Boys,    1991  Being Boring,        - ,   ,                 .          ,          -   ,  -     [46 - Peverini 2010.].        ,     ,          ,  ,     ,         (Biophilia, 2012),   ,       (Lemonade, 2016)    [47 - Carlos 2016; Flood 2012.].       H&M,    -       H&M (Beyonc as Mrs Carter in H&M),          2013     ,     ,   ,            (Standing On The Sun).  ,      ,     ,        (Brave, 2016)        Moncler.              ,               .          - (               ),     ,  ,  ,   Brave (Suffering/Beautiful)    Stew   The Negro Problem.

 -,     - ,       .    ,    ,      ,              [48 - Frahm 2010. . . 156.].       ?      ,     .  ,      ,     ,      ,   (  )  -.         -       ,    ,  ,      ,      [49 -            ,   ,         (Ellestrom 2010: 12).].         ,     ,  ,        [50 - Austerlitz 2007: 23.].   1980?                    ,    ,     ,   .          .   ,

                        ,   . ,   ,   ,      ,  ,       ,     .      [51 - Wollen 1986. . . 168.].

              .   ,          ; 1980?  1990?     ,   , -    ,           ,    [52 - Austerlitz 2007: 42.].            , ,             ,        [53 - Dienst 1994: 84.].    1980?       ,       ,     ,     .  ,  ,   ;     ,        .    ,     :            ,            [54 - Daney 1993: 103105; Daney 198: 299300.]. ,  -                  ,     ,     .    ,       ,         ,     ,          -,   [55 - Vernallis 2013: 3, 6.].




     


     -    XXI ,              ?   ,    ,  ,   ,   ,          ,          .      ,    -        ,       ,         .  Lanvin        ,     ,  ,     -.  2012        57   -     -  .   Cisco,       , ,   2019     80   [56 - Bradford 2015: 198.].                   ,             ,   Flickr, YouTube  Vimeo,      ,    .

   ,           .   , ,      2000?        -,      ,           ;                    2010? .            ,         . <> ,  , -          -,   [57 - Nelson Best 2017: 220.].  ,      ,        .     ,           .   i-D  Vice Media  Dazed Digital,   2013       ,    -,      ,      -,     ,      .

    ,       ,    .  ,      ,        .               ,     .          ,         ,    .   ,            ,   ,   -,          ,    [58 - Gere 2008: 10.].    ,  ,    2000?    . ,  2003     Fly 16 x 9,     Cond Nast.      ,  ,    .   ,    ,                        :

   Fly 16 x 9         ,     .    -                , ,       .  ,       ,               [59 - www.fly16x9.com/press/fly16x9_media_kit.pdf (   15.08.2017).].

          , ,    ,     ,    ,   1980? ,          ,     [60 - Jenkins 2006: 11. . . .:  2019.       (Digital Culture)  ,                   ,     ,       ,     .].         ,         -  .      ,      ,     ,         ,            [61 - Jenkins 2006: 23.].

 ,   -        ,     ,          .  -          ,           ,   ,         .     ,    ,     ,       ,   ,  ,       ,  Nowness.  Nowness    2010   LVMH,   ,  2017        Modern Dazed.    Nowness    -,         eluxury.com,     .  Nowness,        ,      ,   ,      ,     ,    , ,    .      ,      .         ,      .              ,    ,    ,   .        .        -.  2010   Nowness     ,        (Io sono lamore, 2009)   Fendi  Jill Sander,      (Chronology)                -    Net-a-Porter.

 ,     ,          , ,       ,    .       .  ,  ,   ,     [62 - Jenkins et al. 2013: 199.]. ,     ,         Instagram,          ,          .   ,      Herm?s (The Hands of Herm?s; , -, 2011), -,     ,          ,                  .   -,      .     Nowness.       ,      ,        -,    ,  Netflix,       ,    [63 -          .: Bolter & Grusin 2000.].




    


  -  :             ,      .    ()   Burberry       , ,   ,    -,        .                 ,    .        ,             [64 - Remaury 2004.]. Burberry, ,      ,    , , ,  2016  Mr. Burberry.       ,   ,  2014             TIME.              .      70? ,            .     -          (Mr. Burberry  The Art of Film),       [65 -     .: Gray 2010.].          ,    (The Tale of Thomas Burberry),    ,        (2010)    (2015).      ,    ;          -.     ,             ,      : Mr. Burberry    ,     ,        ,        ,            .        Burberry             :    ,       .             ,     [66 - Dyer 1978: 92. . : Gray 2010: 28.].        :        .       ,      (    ),    ,    ,   ,   .

    Burberry     ,      :         (see now, buy now,     ).      :            :   ,       ,     ,       [67 - Mendes 2017. . . 286.].     ,      -,    . -,  / Net-a-Porter   ASOS,   ,      :       ,       .  ,  --    :       ,       ,     ,      ,     ,     ,       ,        ,      .    ,        ,       -,     .

       -    ,     ,           .     -- :   ,  ,                     ,     -       ,      [68 - Ramirez 2010.].            , ?   -       .         ,      -  , ,  (    )  , ,   (    ).               ,   , ,    ,    .

 ,       ,  .  -,  ,         ,     ,     ,     ,     Tory Burch,        .         -   (L Amricaine; , 2015)          .  ,           ,      ,        ,      Tory Burch.        ,    ,      ,    ,         .        ,       .         ,          .      ,              ;         -;  ,            ,        .




 -


  ,   ,     -         .          -,    ?   2010?   -    ,      ,          ;        ,    [69 - Quinn 2005.].      (Place to Passage, 2003)                 ,         .  -   -    2000 ,        SHOWstudio.        -,    ;  Kodak         1985  1987 .              ,        1980? ;       1990?.                ,     ,    .           ,     SHOWstudio.       ,     ,         ,         ,   ,     .                 .    :  (The Sound of Clothes: Synaesthesia, 2006),            ,      .       ,      .           Lernert & Sander,        COS   COS (The Sound of COS, 2014),        ,       .         Jean-Paul Gaultier, Phillip Lim, Brioni, Nowness  Fantastic Man      ,            .

     ,  2000?     SHOWstudio,       ,         .       3D-,         (Sweet, 2000),             ,         .      ,      ,       .    (Sleep, 2001)    (   )          ,     ,          .       -    ,     . ,     (Sleep, 1963),     ,               ,       [70 - Geldzahler 2000; Wollen P. Time in Film and Video Art // Wollen P. (ed.) Paris Hollywood: Writings on Film. New York: Verso, 2002. P. 233241.].   ,    (More Beautiful Women, 2000),          (The Thirteen Most Beautiful Women, 1964),          ,        ,           .     ,    ,     ,         , ,       SHOWstudio,         [71 - Cotton 2009; Smyth 2009.].           -,        (Pagan Poetry, 2001)    (Born This Way, 2011),   ,           (/Naomi, 2009)   .       (Editing Kate, 2010)   ,      ,   ,       Vogue Italia.    ,      1990? ,     ,  ,     ,     (The More Visible They Make Me, The More Invisible I Become, 1995),        , ,  .  ,             , ,        .

   SHOWstudio      ,        ,      1950?      1970?,       -.       (Experiments in Advertising),         Daytons,     ,         ;            .    :    (Compulsive Viewing: The Films of Guy Bourdin, 20022003)    ,      .  ,            [72 - Church Gibson 2014.].     ,             :         .   Bon March  ,   2009    ,   ,     ,    ,  ,      . ,       ,   ,          [73 - Wilson 2004. . . .:  .    //  : , , . 2015. 38. . 231244.].   ,          ,     Vogue:        .

          ,     ,          ,    [74 -    (cinma arr?t)   . . : De Bure 2008: 8.]. ,     ,               :   ,    .    ,

     -,      ,   ,            ,    ,    .     :     ,         .           ,     - [75 - Caujolle 2017. . . 11.].

    ,    1970? ,      ,         ,    - (Il giardino dei Finzi-Contini, 1970)          (Il Conformista, 1970).      Charles Jordan,     , ,   ,   ,   [76 - . : ONeill & Vertime 2014: 36.],  ,    ,      .      ,               ,         ,          .     ,     ,                .






. 1.5.     (2012).     .  SHOWstudio






. 1.6.     (2013).      Dice Kayek.  SHOWstudio



        . -,           X . ,        (The Waist),   -   SHOWstudio   (The Fashion Body, 2009),        (Mainbocher Corset, 1929)          (Le Sang dun po?te, 1930).    X       (Noir, 2013),        SHOWstudio   Dice Kayek.            .

-,     ,    ,      ,  ,         :       ,          . -              .        2008 ,          -       .     (Insensate, 2008),        ,            .      ,    ,     ,     .     ,     [77 -      .: Shinkle E. The Line Between the Wall and the Floor: Reality and Affect in Contemporary Fashion Photography // Shinkle E. (ed.). Fashion as Photograph: Viewing and Re-viewing Images of Fashion. London: I.B. Tauris, 2008. P. 214226.].

        ,        -  Alexander McQueen 2010     (Platos Atlantis).        ,       ,        ,  ,      ,    .  ,   ,     ,    ,       .         (Born This Way)  2011 ,       ,         Alexander McQueen      .                ,      .          ,    ,       .     ,      .      ,     ,         .     ,     ,     ,     ,         ,        ,    .

   ,    SHOWstudio   [78 - Khan 2012: 235250. . . 239. . .:  .   :       //  : , , . 2013. 27. . 273290.],             .   ,         .        ,   -   ,   .  -  . <>      [79 - Knight 2009. . . 4.].   SHOWstudio,  -  ,     ,          .                    ,        -   .




 -


   ,      Dior Homme,               ,     ,  ,   ,   -. ,  ,   Dior     [80 - Tudela 2016.].                           ,       .   ,          2000? ,     Dior Homme   ,   ,      .     ,  ,         ,      .  ,        ,   ,   Dior Homme,  ,     The Kooples  ,           .

     (The Smell of Us, 2015)       .         -,       .  ,  ,            .     ,      ,       (My Little Princess; Ionesco 2010)   ,       .                    , ,       The Guardian   ,        ,   :          ,     ,       ,  [81 - Bradshaw 2014.]




  .


   .

   ,     (https://www.litres.ru/chitat-onlayn/?art=70131835)  .

      Visa, MasterCard, Maestro,    ,   ,     ,  PayPal, WebMoney, ., QIWI ,       .



notes



1


Ember 2016.




2


  :   Meta Platforms Inc.       Facebook  Instagram         22  2022      .




3


Menkes 2013.




4


         (    ). . .




5


Anon 2017.




6


        .: Rocamora 2013.        .: Jenkins et al. 2013.




7


- Vogue China    youku.com, .: i.youku.com/i/UMzA4ODAyNDY0?spm=a2hww.20023042.uerCenter.5~5!2~A (   26.11.2017).




8


    ,      (Elsaesser 2013).




9


McColl 1990.  -   ,       (Uhlirova 2013b).




10


Church Gibson 2012: 11.




11


Ibid.: 83.




12


Radner 2011: 135.




13


    Kingsman:   .: www.boxofficemojo.com/movies/?id=secretservice.htm (   18.09.2017).




14


. : Montes 2017.




15


Friedman 2014.




16


Warner 2014: 14, 18, 155.




17


. : Kedves 2013: 3132.




18


Uhlirova 2013a: 122.




19


Evans 2011.




20


Mead 2016; Michault 2016.




21


     Kering .: Agnew 2017.




22


Wingfield 2016.




23


    Cartier .: ifmparis.blog.lemonde.fr/2013/11/08/luxe-publicite-et-cinema (   11.08.2017)  o.nouvelobs.com/mode/20120427.OBS7247/videos-quand-la-pub-se-fait-un-film.html (   11.08.2017).




24


Berthelot-Guiet K. L Hyperpublicitarisation // Patrin-Lecl?re et al. 2014. P. 158169.




25


Jameson 1991.




26


Bordwell 2002.




27


Lipovetsky & Serroy 2007: 270.




28


Manovich 2011.




29


De M?redieu 1985: 106.




30


Dyer 2007: 1.




31


Wernick 1991.




32


Williams 2005: 170195. . . 170.




33


Ibid.: 183.




34


Williamson 1978: 1314.




35


McAllister & West 2013: 18. . . 2.




36


ATL (. above-the-line   )      ,        (, , , ,    ),    . BTL (. below-the-line   )    ,     ,   ,   ( , -,   . .). . .




37


Powell 2013: 4.




38


Mitrani J. Mission Statement for Headpieces for Fashion (2011). www.jessicamitranistudio.com/ headpieces-for-peace (   24.01.2018).




39


  Insalaam Inshalom  threeASFOUR .: Stromberg 2011.




40


Gunning 1990.




41


Needham 2013. . . 105  106.




42


Wood 2007: 5.




43


Eytan D. The Film Director Behind Fashions Viral Videos: Luca Finotti // Forbes. 2015. March 25. www.forbes.com/sites/declaneytan/2015/03/25/the-film-director-behind-fashions-viral-videos-luca-finotti/#259938fef0f8 (   26.01.2018).




44


Quynh 2012.




45


       - (Uhlirova 2013b).




46


Peverini 2010.




47


Carlos 2016; Flood 2012.




48


Frahm 2010. . . 156.




49


           ,   ,         (Ellestrom 2010: 12).




50


Austerlitz 2007: 23.




51


Wollen 1986. . . 168.




52


Austerlitz 2007: 42.




53


Dienst 1994: 84.




54


Daney 1993: 103105; Daney 198: 299300.




55


Vernallis 2013: 3, 6.




56


Bradford 2015: 198.




57


Nelson Best 2017: 220.




58


Gere 2008: 10.




59


www.fly16x9.com/press/fly16x9_media_kit.pdf (   15.08.2017).




60


Jenkins 2006: 11. . . .:  2019.       (Digital Culture)  ,                   ,     ,       ,     .




61


Jenkins 2006: 23.




62


Jenkins et al. 2013: 199.




63


         .: Bolter & Grusin 2000.




64


Remaury 2004.




65


    .: Gray 2010.




66


Dyer 1978: 92. . : Gray 2010: 28.




67


Mendes 2017. . . 286.




68


Ramirez 2010.




69


Quinn 2005.




70


Geldzahler 2000; Wollen P. Time in Film and Video Art // Wollen P. (ed.) Paris Hollywood: Writings on Film. New York: Verso, 2002. P. 233241.




71


Cotton 2009; Smyth 2009.




72


Church Gibson 2014.




73


Wilson 2004. . . .:  .    //  : , , . 2015. 38. . 231244.




74


   (cinma arr?t)   . . : De Bure 2008: 8.




75


Caujolle 2017. . . 11.




76


. : ONeill & Vertime 2014: 36.




77


     .: Shinkle E. The Line Between the Wall and the Floor: Reality and Affect in Contemporary Fashion Photography // Shinkle E. (ed.). Fashion as Photograph: Viewing and Re-viewing Images of Fashion. London: I.B. Tauris, 2008. P. 214226.




78


Khan 2012: 235250. . . 239. . .:  .   :       //  : , , . 2013. 27. . 273290.




79


Knight 2009. . . 4.




80


Tudela 2016.




81


Bradshaw 2014.


